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Door Lock Mechanism Repair


Door(s) fail to respond normally to lock/unlock signals. In several cases, sending a lock signal via remote locks all but one door. Subsequently sending an unlock and second lock signal then locks the problematic door. Also, when the door in question is the driver's side front door with an aftermarket window controller (AlienTech, etc), the controller usually fails to operate as usual.


The door locking mechanism - responsible for coordinating the activities of the handles, key, and alarm - is having an electronic malfunction, most likely a cracked solder joint from repeated door opening/closing. This is combined with a poor design layout that stresses internal solder joints if the locking mechanism screws loosen and allows movement of the entire unit in the door.

This, of course, is assuming that the door locks and unlocks mechanically without problem (through the interior handle, exterior handle, and key insertion).

Replacing the part with a new one will be a definite fix, but you may also want to consider popping the unit open and look for any obvious problems - despite appearances the internal parts susceptible to failure are simple to troubleshoot and repair.

Also, considering that you'll be removing the inner door panel to access the locking mechanism, now would be a good time to add some noise dampening material to the metal door skin if you desire. There is a damping panel in place from the factory, and it would be interesting to hear if adding additional material would have a noticeable effect.

Part Information & Sources:

Note - always confirm part numbers by looking at the actual part mounted in the car! Mistakes will happen sometime, somewhere.

Part numbers:

Driver's front door lock module
pre VIN 3B-X-090000
post VIN 3B-X-090001

3B1 837 015 E
3B1 837 015 J

Passenger's front door lock module
pre VIN 3B-X-090000
post VIN 3B-X-090001

3B1 837 016 D
3B1 837 016 R

Driver's front door lock module 3B1 837 015 AK
Passenger's front door lock module 3B1 837 016 BH

OEM Pricing: ~$105-$130
Specialized German Recycling: $45
Austin VeeDub: $65


  • Socket wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • Torx drivers/bits: T10*, T20, T25
  • 12 point star driver/bit (aka triple-square or spline bit): M8
  • Soldering iron*
  • Solder* (try Kester! Good stuff.)
  • Desoldering braid*
  • Multimeter*

*Only needed if disassembling the locking mechanism.

Autozone carries a good variety of bits, more so than the other chains I've tried (O'Reilly's, PepBoys, Sears Hardware). You should be able to find the triple square bit in a multipack - buy it, the pack is useful for other work on the car. While you're there, also pick up the large hex driver set - it even includes a 17mm hex driver for removing the auto transmission drain plug. No other store carried the item or had any idea where to obtain it.

Time Required: 1.5-3 hours, depending on individual pace.

Locking Mechanism Removal:

Start by removing the door trim panel.

  1. Begin by lowering the door window glass completely.
  2. There are two black Torx T25 screws at the bottom of the door - remove them. (illustration)
  3. Use a thin-bladed flathead screwdriver to pry off the inner door handle cover (not the door release handle). (illustration)
  4. For the driver side door, you can now pull up on the entire handle/switch assembly as a unit - use moderate force to unclasp the clips holding it in place. Remove the brown wire harness from the handle/switch assembly and set the assembly aside.
  5. For the drivers side door, there are three bronze color screws anchoring the door trim panel to the rest of the door. The passenger's side door has two of these screws. Use a large philips-head screwdriver to remove these. (illustration)
  6. The rest of the door trim panel is now held in place by snap-in anchors and can be loosened by pulling the trim panel away from the door. Begin with the bottom of the door and give it a good tug to pop out the connectors. Take care not to pull the trim panel far away from the door, as there are several wire/cable connections still in place between the trim panel and door. After the lower portion of the trim panel is separated, pull the entire panel upward to unhinge the panel from the window sill. The trim panel should now be free from the door, with several wires and cables still in place. (illustration)
  7. Disconnect the following from the trim panel: (illustration)
    1. Wire harness plugged into the door release handle.
    2. Door release cable. To remove this, pull the cable insulation away from the hooked end and slide the exposed cable out of the slitted retainer. Release the hooked end.
    3. Security alarm LED wire connector.
    4. Bottom door sill lamp - it's easier to pull out the entire wire harness + lamp assembly than to disconnect the wire harness.
  8. Pull the door trim panel away and set aside.

Next, window glass removal:

  1. Remove the two large, circular rubber inserts from the metal door panel. If you pry with a screwdriver, take care not to damage the mating surfaces. (illustration)
  2. Reconnect the handle/switch assembly to the brown wire harness to allow window control. With the key in the On position (no need to start the engine), roll up the window until the window clamp screws are accessible through the circular cutouts.
  3. Use a 10mm socket to loosen the clamps holding the window glass in place - it will only take a few turns to loosen the clamps, no need to remove the screws entirely.
  4. Roll the window down until a third of the window glass is left visible in the window frame.
  5. Disconnect the handle/switch assembly.
  6. Remove the window glass. Reach over the top of the door and pull the window glass upwards (towards yourself). As you raise the window glass, angle it towards the hinge side of the door to allow the window glass to clear the window slot. Set the window glass aside.

Unhooking the lock mechanism:

  1. On the end side of the door, pry off the black plastic cap above the lock mechanism screws. This cap covers the access hole for the lock set screw. (illustration)
  2. Use a Torx T20 driver to unscrew the set screw. Unscrew it as far as it will go, then reinsert a few threads to keep the screw from falling out of its mounting.
  3. Pull on the exterior door handle - with the door handle in this position, pull on the lock cylinder. It should slide out without much trouble. Set the lock cylinder aside. (illustration)
  4. There is a cable hooked into the side of the exterior door handle. The cable can be positioned at various points along the handle. Note the current position of the cable and release it from the handle. (illustration)
  5. Use the M8 12 point star driver to remove the two screws in the door side. On my car, these screws were loose and allowed the lock mechanism to move around, causing solder joint stress - keep reading... (illustration)

Removing the metal panel:

  1. Disconnect the various wire harnesses on the metal door panel - don't worry about what goes where - each connector can only fit in one and only one place. Also use a flathead screwdriver to unclip the various snaps holding the wiring to the panel.
  2. Use the 10mm socket to unscrew the ten hex bolts securing the metal panel to the door frame. (illustration)
  3. Pull the panel away from the door frame starting at the edges - if you haven't removed the panel before, the gasket may require a bit of force to pry it away from the frame. Carefully maneuver the entire panel around until the panel is free of the door frame with the lock mechanism and associated wiring attached. (illustration)
  4. Remove the wire harness from the lock mechanism and remove it from the metal panel - this will allow you to completely separate the metal panel from the door. (illustration)

Removing the lock mechanism:

  1. The lock mechanism is held in place on the metal panel by a plastic bracket with two cylindrical pins keeping the bracket in place. Use a blunt tool to push the pins out from the rear of the panel. My Passat had managed to work the pins loose and dropped them into the door frame, where they've likely lain for months. The bracket had then worked loose of the panel and the entire lock mechanism was free to jostle around in the door. The wiring harness, still being pinned in place, then stressed the electrical connectors internal to the lock mechanism and cracked a solder joint.
  2. Unhook the door lock pin rod from the lock mechanism. (illustration)
  3. Remove the interior door release handle cable. Start by popping the harness out of the mount on the locking mechanism, then unhook the cable.
  4. Separate the locking mechanism from the panel. (illustration)

If you are simply replacing the entire mechanism, pop on the replacement and retrace your steps. If you're feeling charitable, contact me - I'd like to take a look at other failed units and see if the problem with mine is common, or if Passat owners can expect a variety of failure modes. If you'd like to attempt repair, read on.

The trouble area of the mechanism is in the electrical connection part of the unit. This is the black & pale yellow plastic section held together by a total of 8 screws and two plastic snaps.

Locking Mechanism Disassembly:

  1. Use a Torx T10 driver to unscrew the 5 visible Torx screws (four on the face, one on the side). (illustration)
  2. Pull the plastic bracket's long clip from the mechanism - there is a sixth screw hidden underneath.
  3. Use a Torx T20 to remove the large Torx screw.
  4. You should now be able to carefully pull apart the two sections of the mechanism - you'll need to unclip the plastic snaps while pulling the sections away from each other. (illustration)
  5. After pulling these sections away, the last Torx T10 screw will be revealed. Remove it.
  6. Flip the mechanism to the yellow plastic side. Pull and remove the spring indicated. (illustration)
  7. Pull the metal handle indicated upward to allow separation of the two halves.
  8. Flip to the black plastic side without allowing the two halves to separate.
  9. The internals of the mechanism are mounted on the yellow plastic half - carefully pull up on the black plastic half to reveal the electronics inside. (illustration)

Locking Mechanism Diagnosis:

The electronics are straightforward. Two microswitches at the top of the unit detect if the key is moving the lock cylinder to the lock or unlock positions. The microswitch next to the white plastic slide determines the current state of the door lock. The motor actuates electronic locking and unlocking.

Note: Take care not to change the position of the various handles and slides - it's fairly easy to determine how the different switches and handles interact with each other when it's time to put things back together, but it's easier to leave everything in the positions discovered. Also, note the position of the brown gear on the motor shaft to the small white attachment mounted inside. There is an alignment between the notch in the copper track inside the brown gear and a metal cylinder in the white plastic container. Just be sure to reset this relationship during reassembly.

  1. Pull the white slide from the assembly, along with the white mount holding the shaft of the plastic slide screw and the motor shaft in place. Set aside, without changing the state of the plastic slide and screw. (illustration)
  2. Pull the circuit board and motor from the yellow plastic half and flip upside down. (illustration)


  1. Start by examining the solder joints where the wire harness connectors meet the printed circuit board (PCB). I had a cracked joint at pin 7. (illustration)
  2. Move on and visually inspect the solder joints for the three microswitches.
  3. Use a multimeter and test each of the microswitches at the solder joints for correct operation. Usually, only two of the three contacts are used - when the switch is depressed, the two used contacts should have 0 or near 0 resistance (or if your multimeter has continuity checking, it should give a tone). Though usually only the trunk microswitch has a tendency to go bad, this could have occurred here as well. If a switch is bad, you'll need to replace it - there should be a part number somewhere for the switch, if all else fails you can always order a trunk microswitch and mount that.
  4. If the switches are good, it's probably a solder joint problem. Heat up the soldering iron and use the desoldering braid to remove all of the solder from every joint in use on the board. Work in sections - remove solder from a few pins, and then resolder the same connections. Removing solder from all of the joints at once from a component will cause it to fall off the board and leave you to realign it. Not difficult, but easy to avoid anyway.
  5. The red and blue wires connecting to the other section of the unit are used for a fourth microswitch - it isn't necessary to remove the microswitch from its mounting clip, but do test it as with the others.

Hopefully you've just done something that fixed the problem. Reassemble in the reverse order and see if your door (and wallet) is happy!


  • Excellent description - thank you!

    Deadlocks - I've not seen this mentioned:

    It is worth understanding that on some models (not the one shown in the photos I think) there is a deadlock engaged when the car is locked from the keyfob (as distinct from just using one of the internal central locking knobs). Until that deadlock is removed, nothing (bar grinder, or correct key, assuming theres a key lock fitted) will permit the door to be opened.

    If you can't open door from inside or out and the inside lever has reduced travel with the lock knob refusing to come up (i.e. disappearing under spring tension back into the locked position) then it is likely the deadlock is engaged. This can only be disengaged by driving the cam up or down by either the lock motor or by hand (after suitable cutting for access).

    before hacking the lock out with grinding discs etc:

    Check for 12v of either polarity on pins 1-2 of lock module plug when operating c/locking (this will require door card and inner panel removal; this for 2005 model B5.5, check wiring diagram for your year). If present it suggests that motor or module has a fault... worth trying next step but be prepared to cut...

    If nothing found then briefly apply 12v of either polarity to pins 1&2 of lock module. With tight access this is difficult - consider cutting the loom to the lock module plug, say mid-way along panel before it goes through grommet - i.e. at a location you can easily re-splice it back into the door loom.

    Plug into lock module and from the free end, select the appropriate colour wires for the motor iaw wiring diagram. Again, briefly apply 12v of either polarity to these wires.

    The aim is to bypass all electronics, microswitches etc to drive the motor and thus disengage the deadlock. Use brief bursts to avoid burning out motor when it hits either limit (since we're running it without any protections). Run to end of travel (change in motor note), remove power and manually try to unlock door. If fails, apply opposite polarity to opposite end of travel and repeat.

    If motor works then door should be unlockable without hacking lock module out.

    If motor does not work then look at photos here, locate on your module where the toothed gear is and cut through module plastic outer to access. Turn gear by hand to achieve aim as above and remove deadlock. This should be easier than hacking out entire lock.


    As others noted, the door card torx screws ARE accesible from inside if door doesnt open. Later models (UK 2005 for instance) have white plastic covers over the lock modules; bit of a pain but these are to protect against water ingress from above, concequently the insides, 15 years later, were spotless. 1998 car lacked these and corrosion significant.

    Pins 1&2 feed the lock motor. If no voltage then suspect wiring failure (likely at hinge between door and body). Sods law this is not accessible with the door locked shut! However, you can either a

    Jim UK - Nov 11, 2020 @ 8:22 am
  • Great description, which I found after removing and refitting a couple of times. Later locks have two motors inside.

    By the way, don't worry about the white plastic bracket and the way it joins to the white water shield over the lock, it is an assembly aid for the factory. It can be useful but it can make things more awkward.

    Watch out for the loose C shaped pressing that holds the lock barrel when you re-install the latch, especially if it is on the assembly aid bracket. The white water shield can catch the C shape and dislodge it. So tighten the lock barrel holding screw just in case while you refit the lock. And poke a finger through the lock barrel hole as you refit the latch, to prevent it snagging.
    Graham, UK - Sep 6, 2020 @ 4:42 pm
  • i am from Italy hello. Can you help me translate? /rardor
    rardsteam - Dec 17, 2019 @ 9:06 am
  • Thanks great write up , i dont think I could have done without it. The problem was exactly as you detailed with the connector solder joints, very hard to find unless you know what you are looking for. Just some suggestions on soldering, the conformal coating needs to be removed around the joints prior to soldering. I did not have a suitable solvent so had to carefully scrape it off, this is essential to achieve a good lasting result.
    Tim New Zealand - Jan 5, 2018 @ 12:54 pm

    That's it . . . saved me and my family $100ssss of dollars at least.

    Sincerely, Thanks so much!
    The Dirkster - Aug 5, 2017 @ 3:22 pm
  • The trick of course Arvin is that you should use a drill that is only slightly larger than the shaft of the rivet. Once the top pops off the job is done, drill no further! Its only an ally rivet so your drill bit must have been seriously f*cked. :)

    Great write up, saved shitloads of time and effort.
    Paul, France - May 4, 2017 @ 4:49 am
  • Great write up. I ended up replacing my driver door locking mechanism with one from Amazon for $36. Works like a charm, consistently. Just hope it lasts. One note about the plastic bracket that holds the locking mechanism to the metal plate: it is held onto the locking mechanism with a rivet. This rivet needs to be drilled out and either replaced with a new rivet or a small bolt and screw. Take care when drilling the rivet out as the plastic around it can start to melt from the heat and/or split. Ask me how I know.
    Thanks again for the great write-up
    Arvin Q - May 3, 2017 @ 6:35 pm
  • Hi! Thanks to this article, I got my passat's long lasting locking problem solved. Had a cracked solder joint no. 7 at the circuit board, too. But now it's taken care of - thanks to you!
    Antero V - Finland - Sep 6, 2016 @ 12:28 pm
  • Hi, I've got both interior panels off. I can see the lock mechanism. I've tried all the tips and tricks (hooking the mechanism, running power to the lock) but the door simply won't open.

    Any radical ideas?
    Martin Australia - Jan 25, 2016 @ 8:27 pm
  • great..

    Deepak - Nov 14, 2015 @ 8:32 am
  • What a great write-up!

    Just this last week, my Passat started to randomly scream at me that the drivers door was open while driving, and then occasionally, it would set the alarm off if I left the car locked.
    After following through this procedure, found that the micro switch that detects the latch position was all chewed up (which after a little further research, seems to be a common problem). I ended up replacing the whole lock assembly.

    BTW, the part number 3B1837015AK has been superseded by 3B1837015AS, and I suspect other part numbers are changed too.
    One of the changes in the design is a move to a lever-actuated micro switch in this area (so the cam for the door latch mechanism pushes on the micro switch lever, and not the switch directly), which I expect should greatly improve reliability.

    Thanks again for a great write up!

    David L - Aug 22, 2015 @ 1:45 pm
  • thank you so much for this detailed article. It gave me the courage and details to replace the door actuator (with non-OEM) on on my driver's side - 2003 Passat 1.8t. The first unsuccessful try took maybe a couple of hours to remove the door trim and glass and unsuccessfully fuss with the door lock cover and ruined door latch screws (see #1). My second and successful try took about 3-4 hours total. Obviously I don't do a lot of these repairs, and patience is key! Here's my experience:
    1. do NOT attempt to remove the M8 12pt screws with a 6pt Hex (Allen) wrench - that is suggested in one of the notes. It's very easy to ruin these screws --I needed to replace them (about $7 for 2 from the VW dealer). I needed to use a screw extractor (one was so tight I needed my electric drill as the battery powered model didn't have the juice).
    2. it's much better to tape the window then remove it. That was the scariest part of my first try (yes it took two). So after step 11. Roll the window up and tape it there. I used painters tape which is easy to remove. Tape is cheap and I used plenty. To reverse it, run the window to 1/2way up or so, then remove the tape and reclamp. This saves a lot of time and stress.
    3. There is a key lock cover which fits around the key lock. It's a painted surface. It's held in by two plastic hooks. The bottom one just wouldn't release (not too surprising for a 13 yr old car) so I wound up breaking that bottom hook. The good news is that it snapped back on and seems solid.
    4. Removing the lock cylinder required pliers to remove -- again not surprising with the age of the car.
    5. the snaps which hold the wiring to the metal panel are easily broken. I broke two but didn't worry about replacing them.
    6. pulling the metal panel out was difficult as the sealing tape or whatever was quite sticky. I needed a putty knife to help pry it off.
    7. Removing the actuator / latch unit was a bit different here (step 24). There was one long plastic tab and a rivet holding the actuator to the metal door frame. I drilled out the rivet figuring the door latch bolts would be enough to keep the unit secure (in addition to that plastic tab).
    8. putting the metal door frame back in is difficult. The lock/latch assembly needs to go in first and moves around -- it took me several tries to line that up along with the window hardware. Two things that really helped me -- one is to tie a long string through the door to the cable in the actuator/latch unit (this is the cable that connects to the exterior door handle). That ensures it's in the right place and makes it alot easier to grab it. Second is to use the door lock rod to leverage the latch (the door lock rod is the thing that goes through the top of the door trim panel so you can lock the door from the inside)

    And now everything works! The top of the interior door trim is loose (probably from bending it when removing it, but it's ok. Beyond that, good as new.
    Chris Ten Eyck, USA - Aug 8, 2015 @ 6:38 am
  • Hello,

    I have a B5 Passat and as with most people out there I too have a problem with the door lock mechanism.
    I press the central lock button and all locks momentarily close and then immediately pop open again. This happens in random order (and random number of locks open each time) and there are days where they may all lock (maybe it has to do with temperature or something).

    I read a lot of walk-thoughs on how to replace or repair the door lock but I am not feeling comfortable going through it all, especially removing the window.

    I was wandering if there is a wire I can cut or short circuit in order to avoid the lock popping up again. I imagine that when I press the central lock button it sends the lock signal to all 4 doors but then receives a wrong micr-oswitch event and then it pops the lock open. Do you know which wire gives this indication?

    Thank you in advance,
    George - Nov 16, 2014 @ 2:32 pm
  • Hi, I replaced my driver door lock actuator with a new one on my 2001 VW bora then we tried opening an closing it about 3 times it worked perfect then on the fourth close it didn't reopen. It appears to be stuck in the locked position so now I cant get it opened to see whats the problem or changed out the actuator. The knob on the door works fine up and down with the key and master lock control but the door won't open at all. Pls assist on how to open the door without ripping it apart an what might be the reason why its doing this.
    Dexter Dunlop, Trinidad - Aug 28, 2014 @ 11:58 pm
  • Great, hade a hard time finding this, and this really helped. Now my interiorlights works with the drivers door and the car indikates that its locked by flashing with the turnsignal and the alarm for leaving the lights on works aswell. But all doors except drivers door, still locks and unlocks twice, any ideas om is it supposed to do that? I think the Button left electric line at the last pic is bad aswell, But wouldnt effect anyrhing unless key is used
    Albin, Sweden - Aug 28, 2014 @ 9:32 am
  • great work. helped me heaps. wished i found this site before starting the job!
    Ben for Pastor Yu (Australia) - Aug 21, 2014 @ 9:29 am
  • excellent guide a big thanks
    phil uk - Aug 13, 2014 @ 5:16 am
  • When I removed the lock cylinder, a "circular" (actually 2/3 of a circle, open on the rest) fell into the door, and now the set screw will not lock the cylinder in place. Any guidance on where this ring, goes, and how to re-install it?
    Rich Lesnik, USA - Jul 21, 2014 @ 9:37 am
  • Thankyou
    JansQ-Finland - May 10, 2014 @ 10:49 am
  • Have a 2003 Jetta and the door locks all started failing over the last few years. Pulled the passenger side front apart to start with and didn't find any loose connections. I have no voltage at the motor when operating the lock/ unlock mechanism. Not sure what other cause there is. The last door, "driver's" recently stopped working this was the motivation to tear into this. No success yet. But thank you for the detailed information.
    Mark Kroll - Apr 6, 2014 @ 2:45 pm
  • Veľké ďakujem
    Slovakia - Mar 14, 2014 @ 2:09 am
  • rear offside door wont open inside or out and just failed mot because of this!!. absolutely lost now because these instructions dont actually describe how the catch releases!!. i have tried everything short of breaking off the actuator where it is attached to the door skin. i wont be buying another VW ever!.
    paul vincent - Mar 2, 2014 @ 7:55 am
  • Thank you very much for detailed instructions! In my 2004 GL the circuit board was actually covered with a thick layer of lacquer. Guess they were trying to protect the soldering points, but the (same!) switch contact proved to be loose nevertheless.
    yuri, US - Feb 27, 2014 @ 3:26 pm
  • I would like to add the following, on this great instruction. The passenger door on my Passat 1.9 tdi 2002 was locked - and impossible to open. I was not able to remove the door panel. After spending hours searching the internet I was prepared to destroy the door/locking mechanism. But due to the solderingproblem described I came up with this last idea. I heated the door with a heating-pistol. Believe it or not - after a while and many attemps with the door opener - the door opened.

    Now I can follow the instructions to fix the soldering problem permanently.
    Espen, Norway - Feb 15, 2014 @ 3:02 am
  • Saved my friend wallet today :-P

    Excellent description, we were only struggling with the disassembly of the lock itself, and especially were all lose parts should go....

    Figured it out eventually and his central locking worked like it was brand new! Same solder joint was faulty btw

    Grtz from Holland
    Frank (Netherlands) - Feb 1, 2014 @ 4:18 pm
  • I had the exact same solder joint problem on my 2001 passat, which was easily repaired thanks to your guide! It's a good idea to inspect and replace the window regulator cable (also a common problem) while you have everything open, there are some cheap repair kits available for this. Thanks for this great writeup!
    Alwin - Jan 26, 2014 @ 2:57 pm
  • Thank you for the detailed info, was a great help. I also had a crack in the solder joint like you did. My symptoms were: central lock could not be controlled from the driver's door, the interior light did not turn on when opening the door.
    Heino, Denmark - Dec 27, 2013 @ 2:55 am
  • Worked like a charm! Most everything came back to life especially the windows raising and lowering, however, the drivers side door now acts like the back doors and you have to pull twice to open. The drivers side back door acts like the front door and opens on the first pull. Weird. We have a toddler in the back so we just use the driver's side door unlock button.
    marinazar USA - Nov 21, 2013 @ 2:42 pm
  • Thank you for the write up. I could not detect bad solder joints but noticed the lock worked normally if I pulled slightly on the red & blue wires. I reheated the solder joints and all is well.
    TheSnide1, USA - Nov 16, 2013 @ 4:25 pm
  • Thanks!
    matt - Oct 24, 2013 @ 5:39 am
  • Thank you so much! This fixed a lot of things. Headlight warning buzzer works again, I can roll down all the windows and roll them up/close sunroof with the key again, doors don't lock themselves before you turn the key in the ignition, driver side doors turn on the interior light again, alarm doesn't go off if you wait too long before turning on the ignition switch and the rear driver door closes in one press of the remote, instead of the lock, unlock twice, lock ritual I used to have to do (which didn't work every time either).

    Everything works like new. It was the exact same solder joint as pictured that was broken on mine (in addition to the one above it. PITA to get it back together, but your instructions for disassembly were flawless. Only difference on my 2001 Jetta was there are three screws at the bottom and there is a philips head screw at the top of the panel near the hinge. Easy to see the differences, so it went well.

    Thank you again!
    Doug Krug - Aug 12, 2013 @ 2:16 pm
  • Thanks for the write up. Fixed my 05 Skoda Superb driver door lock today using these notes. Motor was faulty. Thanks again John
    John Ireland - Jul 30, 2013 @ 4:52 pm
  • Great instructions, my driver door won't lock, still no interior light, door lights work. Tested all switches with multimeter all working. Got me stumped.,
    Michael Australia - Jun 30, 2013 @ 6:53 am
  • Great write up solved the problem on my gf's 1999 vw beetle. There's a pretty good video on youtube titled "New Beetle door lock repair" by oldskool1964.
    The part I got came off of e-bay for $125 and I just swapped it out. Part# 3B1837015AS
    Thanks again!
    Richard Donahue - Jun 29, 2013 @ 4:10 pm
    Pablo Hernandez (Spain) - Jun 18, 2013 @ 6:35 am
  • I have a problem with the all the door locks and the fuel filler door not opening electronically. The locks and fuel filler door all work when actuated manually (I had to get at the back of the trunk liner to get a the fuel filler door mechanism). The trunk still seemed to be working electronically. I assumed that this is a CCM problem because it wasn't just the door locks but also the fuel filler door. I pulled the CCM and checked the wires. There was no moisture damage that some other people have reported. What I could see of the wiring harnesses looked OK. One thing that is strange is the driver door lock operates using the key but I cannot depress the mechanism manually. Is it possible that the fuel filler door is somehow tied in with the driver door lock and that the root cause of the problem is the driver door lock rather than the CCM / wiring? Any help appreciated. Thanks for posting the detailed writeup. Really helped when I fixed my driver rear door window regulator problem.
    Curt - Jun 9, 2013 @ 8:18 pm
  • Hi, I have an interesting problem with my Passat 2000 driver's door. When the door is locked 9 out of 20 times you cannot unlock it with the key or the key less remote unit. You can hear the door lock actuator "clicking" but the door is still locked, though sometimes it opens but you have to pull on the door handle several times. I have replaced the door actuator with a new one and the problem persists. Can you provide any ideas on what might be wrong with the locking mechanism? Thank you.
    Rafael Cabezas U.S.A - May 28, 2013 @ 10:35 pm
  • Thanks for finding the cause of the described problems. Great repair description. My 2002 Passat has started displaying some of the described faults. At first the alarm would go off randomly after locking the car. Then the described fuel line problem also started occurring. It has now progressed to where the front internal lights are no longer lighting up and the dashboard display light that warns if one of the doors are opened no longer turns off and keeps beeping a warning during driving. Strangely I was able to stop this by turning the front interior lights switches to off. I have not yet attempted the repair but will give it a go soon.
    Juergen Germany - Apr 29, 2013 @ 10:17 am
  • I had same problems (2000 passat 165K miles) and fixed with a new lock from autopartswarehouse.com ($36.04 + $6.97 shipping). My challenges were to remove the two pins holding the plastic bracket from the inner door and removing the old lock from the plastic bracket. The later required a drill out, and I used a nut-bolts-lock washer for the new lock and for the former I also used bolt and nuts with built in locks.
    I took apart the old lock and could not find any solder joint deformities so frankly I was happy I purchased a new lock. Also a #8 torx is required to take apart the old lock. I purchased the star bits from auto zone. I also used a mechanics magnet when necessary. This was a 5 hour two man job, but next time I think it can be done in 2 hours. I did not remove the window, but taped it in position instead.
    Jonathan Liss USA (NJ) - Mar 28, 2013 @ 8:03 pm
  • I have a 2003 Golf (Generation) which is gradually locking me out, door-by-door. These instructions are so well written and concise that I almost attempted the repair even though I have no experience with this stuff. Especially now I have to open the back door and reach around to the drivers door latch. I have devised a high-tech piece of ribbon - tied to the drivers seat belt anchor - which I mostly remember to loop onto the latch as I exit the car. This rear door is the only one remaining which still works. Shame on VW, they have caused me so much embarrassment, and frustration levels which almost drive me to tears. Without the ribbon loop attached, I can't reach the latch from the back door, without winding the drivers seat forward. It's driving me crazy and I can't afford the repair, being on the pension. I saw the auto electrician about it, and he showed me he had FIVE VW Golfs with their doors stripped. He offered to do one door with second hand parts for $300 and I think I'll take it.
    Kerri Ayling, Australia - Feb 24, 2013 @ 1:20 pm
  • Thank you for your write
    I have a vw passat est tdi est.
    The front passenger would not open from the inside or out.i had a friend run his computer for a diagnotstic it came ua as being in safe mode otherwsie known as a deadbolt.
    He said we may need to rip the interior panel off.
    But we banged near that area and it eventually unlocked.
    So we took the panel of and i am using it manaully.he thinks it the lock on the motor not the main central locking unit so at least we dont have to buy new panels.
    I am going to try and get to it tomorrow.
    Many thanks.
    paul hughes - Feb 16, 2013 @ 11:04 am
  • Thanks for just EXCELLENT explanations!
    I admire your great effort, and methodical thoroughness. Just great!
    Being a mechanic myself, I've decided NOT to do all this work for just getting the light operated by opening the door. It's not worth the trouble. And, despite l like my PASSATS (I have two) and have long-standing respect to "German engineering", I will very doubtfully have my next car made by Germans. Enough is enough. Too many troubles in too many different areas.
    It seems, VW does not stand for "People's Car" any longer. Sad but true. Toyota is the winner now...
    Vladei Kamensky, USA - Jan 8, 2013 @ 1:16 am
  • MANNNN did this work out nice. Being a novice at these tings i was a bit comprehansive about doing all this by my self. Your christal clear explenation with pictures is the reason for trying.
    getting to the lock unit I had a "oh my god I hope this is the issue" moment, but putting it together and seeing my door light come to life and hearing the lights on "BUZZ" again gave me a feeling that can only be discriped as EUFORIA.
    Thanks al mighty lot mate
    Sander (Holland)`99 Golf 4 - Jan 5, 2013 @ 4:42 am
  • Many thanks for this 'how to'. Just changed my window mechanism this afternoon. Could not have done it without your description and pictures!
    Robert (Netherlands) - Dec 8, 2012 @ 8:27 am
  • My wife's Passat rear locks work intermittently - Do I need to go in to those rear doors to fix the solder points or does the front driver's side door contain the solder points that operate all doors? I need to know which door to get into so I can re-solder the microchip module. thanks, Rick
    Rick Landers USA - Dec 5, 2012 @ 3:43 pm
  • the left rear door on my 05 Passat is jammed and much trouble opening to check the solder joints etc.

    Have been able to been the inside trim panel and inner mounting off but now cannot seperate the wiring harness from the lock, are there any trick, hidden clips etc.

    The next challenge will be to get the lock to release, nothing I have done so far has succeeded, appreciate any feedback and advice.


    Jafajones, New Zealand - Nov 30, 2012 @ 10:40 pm
  • You are a legend. I bought a 2nd hand 2003 Passat V6 4motion wagon. I got it from a dealership and it only came with the valet key which thought was very strange. I tried to get the dealership to chase up the previous owner so I could get the remote keys for it but no luck. It took me a while to figure out why it only had the valet key. The drivers door lock mech had the problem you describe here. I am sure the previous owners wouldn't have wanted to trade the vehicle with remote keys as that would have shown the fault. Anyway, I have just replaced the mech as per your fantastic instructions and all the lights and warning beeps are working as they should. Now to replace the remote key(s)...

    Many thanks. A truely great resource.
    Jason - Colorado USA - Nov 10, 2012 @ 4:54 pm
  • great instructions but the passanger door wont unlock to start with, so i cant remove the locking mechanism or the door pannel with the door locked shut. Any ideas?
    Gary Miller - Oct 28, 2012 @ 5:56 am
  • My 1998 Passat driver side locks works with power locks. But key in the lock "goes 'round and 'round" without doing anything.

    I assume the lock cylinder is somehow mechanically moving parts of the lock mechanism itself, and that connection is gone.

    Am I on the right track?

    Photo or description what part may be at fault?
    regularfix (MI, USA) - Sep 23, 2012 @ 6:01 pm
  • Great post thank you for this excellent precise instructions
    Philip Cogan - Sep 19, 2012 @ 8:09 am
  • Great tutorial, but a couple things I ran into that might be helpful for someone else. At first my door wouldn't open from the outside. This was fixed by adjusting where you push the cable into the outside handle. I was convinced that I was missing one of the two springs shown on the outside of the mechanism. Seems like there are a couple variations for the locking mechanism, since mine doesn't have the holes to install the larger spring. Finally, after I had put everything back together, the door wouldn't lock, the pin would just bounce a bit when I tried to lock the door, and I couldn't push down the pin manually. The problem was that inside the electrical portion with the PCB, the slider that moves up and down with the motor has a hole in the top which fit on a white plastic pin. I neglected to put that back on. Also, I'm not sure it matters, but before the two halves of the mechanism go back together, make sure the lock is in the unlocked position - there is a meter lever on the electrical side which hits a part on the other side.
    Andrew Lund (Canada) - Sep 11, 2012 @ 8:06 pm
  • I have a 2009 VW Jetta TDI with these exact symptoms. I have already had the unit replaced for around $600 (!!!) and now two other doors are acting up. What makes this worse is that you must have this repaired because there is no way to manually lock the door. I really could not care less if I can't electronically lock/unlock the door and wouldn't get it fixed. But we're forced to because they don't manual locks. aaaagh!

    I will tear the door open this weekend and inspect my solder joints and report back.
    Tom, New Jersey, USA - Sep 6, 2012 @ 10:04 am
  • have suffered a defective passenger door(central locking and interior lights)for 7 years on a 2000 passat,drivers side recently packed up(interior lights)fixed both sides over 2 dry afternoons at a cost of less than £10 for the spline bits.
    marvelous write up,THANK YOU!!
    dave u.k. - Aug 27, 2012 @ 4:49 am
  • Would this be the same place to look at for the sensor that tells the car if the door is closed or not? Odd things happening, most notable is "Lights are on" chime does not work after you open the door. If you lock the door, then unlock and open, the Chime works fine.
    Scott - Jul 31, 2012 @ 1:57 pm
  • Hi, First off, thanks for the great info! I have a 2004 Bora estate with the same problem. I took my lock mechanism apart but found nothing obviously wrong. I re soldered all the joints but no joy. I would like to replace the module but as it's a left hand drive car would the part numbers above be the same? The module part number of my left, (drivers) door is 3B1 837 015 Q. I can't find any modules with a 'Q'. Would the module be the same for the left doors, regardless whether it's the drivers door or not? I.e. would it still give the alarm for leaving the lights on etc... Inside my module there were 4 microswitches, not 3.

    Adam, Italy - Jul 29, 2012 @ 5:07 pm
  • Totally jammed rear door solution -

    1 - You have to get the door skin off from within the car and then attack the door lock mechanism with various cutting tools. Therefore before you begin ensure you purchase a second hand locking mechanism first.
    2 - you can access the bottom torx screw from within the car, undo this, then prise out the door handle panel and unscrew the 2 PH3 screws
    3 - lever the door skin off from the bottom and disconnect al wires and cables
    4 - lower the window right down, pop off the black circular cap and then push out the white plastic grommet with a similar sized rod (maybe a socket extension bar)
    5 - pull the window back into place and gaffa tape it to stay there
    6 - undo all the 10mm bolts and pop out the second internal skin, disconnect as much as you can from the back and get it as out of the way as possible (probably push the driver seat as far forward as possible)
    7 - you will need something like a dremel multi tool and at least 20 mini cutting discs to cut the lock out. wear safety goggles and try to cover your car seat with something to protect it. Possibly try jamming some cardboard near the bottom of the door skin to catch some of the stuff you cut out. Crowbar and cut away at the locking mechanism until you expose the lock mechanism parts and then use a screwdriver to lever the arms until the lock pops open and you fall out of the door onto the street.
    8 - feel suitably pleased with your massive mission effort to cut it out and then have a cup of tea and some biscuits (keep an eye on your now unsecure car as you do it)
    9 - fit your secondhand lock mechanism into the door and reverse fit everything - job done!

    If anyone has a better way of doing this then post it here please!!!

    you can get to the single torx screw at the base of the door from within the car
    Gary - Jun 16, 2012 @ 1:47 pm
  • You rock! Thanks so much for posting this invaluable information; I would have never attempted doing this myself without such detailed instructions to reference. Thanks.
    Dan H, USA - May 15, 2012 @ 12:24 pm
  • Thanks for great instructions. Helped alot.
    G SA - Mar 19, 2012 @ 11:58 am
  • Thanks a million, great work. I now have working locks, and at no cost at all! Used a little more time than you estimated, but hey - it was my first door repair ever.
    Espen, Norway - Mar 4, 2012 @ 3:31 pm
  • 98 passat, you can hear the doors lock and unlock, you can even see the locks go up and down. But the doors do not unlock,any door. Is the issue just the driver side mechanism? Please help just bought car and have to keep window open to start car and get in like dukes of hazard.
    al'borough outlawz u.s. - Feb 8, 2012 @ 4:43 pm
  • 98 passat, you can hear the doors lock and unlock, you can even see the locks go up and down. But the doors do not unlock,any door. Is the issue just the driver side mechanism? Please help just bought car and have to keep window open to start car and get in like dukes of hazard.
    al'borough outlawz u.s. - Feb 8, 2012 @ 4:43 pm
  • Thanx man, was a pleasure to read your article and then go ahead and fix the CL at my '98 Passat! Both driver and passenger doors were faulty, but now it all works like brand new!
    Thanks again! Great job with ur article!
    Hailaql - Ireland - Jan 28, 2012 @ 9:37 am
  • My VW Passat 2004, 1.8T front passenger door was not opening either from the inside, outside or remote. When opening from inside, knob would go up but would go back down when inside door handle is released. (Solution) I opened the back door. I used an eight inch bolt and mallet to knock the front door lock mechanism mounting bolt that is visible from behind. After several firm knocks, the lock mechanism released and the door opened normally.
    On examining door mechanism catch on the door, I noticed a dust build up between the main frame and movable door catch. I sprayed mechanism with contact cleaner (which does not leave a residue) to remove all dust. The door now opens from all points and with only one pull of the inside lever. I advise that you service and clean all door mechanisms in this manner to avoid further door problems.

    Wayne Patrick (Trinidad W.I.) - Jan 22, 2012 @ 8:32 am
  • Many thanks for these instructions, I followed 'em last year, on my '98 tdi estate,
    having bought a replacement lock from a breakers, and it went perfectly. Could not have done it without your help.
    Last week, the drivers door key refused to open the locks, nor could I open the door with the interior handle. After lots of playing (and swearing, I admit) with t he standard key and remote, it did turn and open. I did not re-lock it! Instead I dug out your instructions again, starting with removing the key barrel mechanism - that turned out to have broken up, the broken parts had stopped the handle mechanism from opening. Simple job to remove the tongue which locates in the main lock mechanism so that the remote now operates the locks and the standard key will open via the passenger's door or hatch.

    I had thought to swap the passenger/driver door key barrels, BUT - and this is the reason for the post - on the '98 models and probably later, those key mechanism have locating grooves which are handed so you cannot do this. Maybe you might point this out in your main instructions, for the sake of completeness. I am off to the breakers shortly to find a replacement. Why VW thought it a good idea to have an identical shape mechanism but fitting one side only is beyond belief, it must have added to the parts cost and doubled the stock holdings necessary for spares. Are you reading this VW? Thought not!!!
    Thanks again.
    Ken. Catalunya - Jan 21, 2012 @ 10:16 am
  • Hi, the write is excellent. My problem I have right now is that once I lock the front passenger door, and upon unlock, I need to manually physically push the door to hear a "click" sound before I can open it. Can you advise if the lock mechanism is faulty? Thank you.
    Wayne Ho (Singapore) - Jan 11, 2012 @ 3:15 am
  • Thanks to these great instructions, I had a relatively easy time removing and replacing the door lock actuator on my '05 Jetta wagon. I did notice that an Allen wrench worked fine instead of hunting down a 12 point Star M8 drive for the two door lock bolts. When I got down to the door lock actuator itself, I found that the plastic bracket had broken off for the two pins that hold it in place on the inner door. Rather than order a new bracket at $18, I used short machine screws with nuts and lock washers to hold it in place. This is probably stronger than original. I didn't take the actuator apart to see if the solder connections were broken. Instead, I opted for a whole new part. This set me back about $200, but everything is working fine and I shouldn't have to worry about tearing the door apart again.
    Thanks for these incredibly well-written instructions. Without them, I doubt I would have been able to do the job as there are so many little steps to follow.
    Simon Rose - Jan 10, 2012 @ 1:06 pm
  • These were some of the best instructions I've had the pleasure to follow. The only hang-up was when I removed the two door lock bolts from the end of the door. The bolts are mentioned in the instructions as M8 12 point Star. After looking around to purchase the correct tool, I simply used a six point metric hex key. Other than that, everything went exactly according to these incredibly well-detailed instructions. Can't thank you enough as it saved me quite a bit of money.
    Simon Rose - Jan 7, 2012 @ 7:52 am
  • Thanks for the great instructions,only wish I read them before I started removing the inner door plate,ie locking mechanism fixed to that I hadn't released that before I started to remove the inner plate / panel.My repair was door would not release from the outside only inside.Again great write up....Many thanks
    Mike Wouters - Dec 27, 2011 @ 6:59 pm
  • I have a 2007 Volkswagen Passat 1.6cc fsi. I tried opening the passenger door as normal but the door arm seems to have disconnected. I can open the door from the inside but it will not open from the outside. How much will this cost a mechanic to fix? How long will the work take?
    Keith (Ireland) - Dec 21, 2011 @ 4:07 pm
  • Looks good. One problem I have is that I can't even open the door, so how do I get to the bolts that allow me to release the lock assembly? I need to ge the door open. Any ideas? One mechanic suggested he may be able to shock it open, how would that work? I've taken it to two mechanics and the quotes so far are 250 or 280 euros. I don't want to be spending that kind of money for some broken solder.
    David, Ireland - Dec 10, 2011 @ 7:33 am
  • Trunk problem solved! Connector that comes to trunk locking mechanism was rusty/soaked with water. Cleaned, oiled and sealed with silicon and now it works.
    Juho Finland - Dec 7, 2011 @ 4:07 am
  • Does drivers side locking mechanism anything to do with trunk? I have '04 3B passat and first sympton was, when locking doors, every door locks but drivers door lock popped back up, after couple weeks now it keeps telling me that trunk is open.
    I checked comfort control module and wires around it and everything seems to be okay.
    Sounds bad joint/connection to me, but from where should i check next?
    Juho Finland - Dec 5, 2011 @ 8:34 am
  • It worked! Resoldering the joints shown in the author's picture fixed the issue. Only pin 7 visibly showed a solder crack in my lock module, but I resoldered the neighboring pins around it for good measure as well. The interior light now behaves as it should (used to never come when the door opened) and the alarm no longer goes off when I start driving when using the fob key (with alarm system enabled). The author was right – the alarm and light were because the state of the door was not being properly detected. The write-up and pictures are great – thanks so much. 2000 Golf.
    Mark Gorman - Nov 20, 2011 @ 2:18 pm
  • Thank you for sharing this information, I have a VW '02 Bora the rear passenger door is jammed so I'm hoping to apply this knowledge and see if it works. Thanks a million.
    David (Ireland) - Oct 31, 2011 @ 3:04 pm
  • I have a 01 passat glx 4motion wagon . The remote works on all the doors but not on the hatch. Also you have to hold the key about 3 inches from the drivers window to work . Coulod this be a bad solder joint.
    Dave USA - Oct 20, 2011 @ 9:26 am
  • hands down, GREAT WRITE UP! In the book a DIY this would be a A+ example. thank you for your time, it sure has saved me mine!
    anders - Oct 10, 2011 @ 8:02 am
  • My rear offside remote locking was not working. I followed your guide and although I didn't find anything wrong with the various connections or micro switches, I fettled about a little and when I put it back together again it's all working normally.

    So, many thanks for this guide - which was really straight forwards to follow, especially with the photos.

    Harvs, UK - Oct 9, 2011 @ 10:45 am
  • Passat 2003 - bopth remote door openers don't work, can't lock the doors by the key - they lock and within one second they unlock again, same time this started, my windows winders stopped working.Everything alse seems to work OK. Please help....karl
    karl roach - Sep 26, 2011 @ 2:32 pm
  • Thank you very much for a very comprehensive description and explanation of the internal workings of the VW Passat door and window mechanism.
    After months without the power window working, I now have it back to factory condition(or nearly if you don't look to closely).
    Kind regards
    James Wilson - Sep 23, 2011 @ 11:31 am
  • Great how-to, clear explanation of the steps needed to be taken.
    Step 4 and 7 from the door lock disassembly need to be reversed, if I'm not wrong.
    Figured it out, though, no big deal.
    Joris, Netherlands - Sep 9, 2011 @ 6:07 am
  • Used this instruction to repair the driverside lock on a Volkswagen Golf 1.6 Automatic (1999) on which the central door locking system failed and door light didn't come on, and was able to repair 2 faulty soldering joints on the print inside the lock, solving both problems at once!! Works perfectly again now, thank you so much for the clear instructions!! Even though it was written for a Passat, it was an almost perfect match to our Golf!
    Peter - Sep 4, 2011 @ 1:08 pm

    Impossible to open door from inside or outside. Tried pulling pulling central locking ON OFF etc.
    Cant get at lock mechanism due door closed. VW going to charge a fortune, Choice pay up or rip door off.

    Got acess to lower black inner skin star screw. But there are two. The second hid by seat door arch. Got a torx gadget the ones with about 6 torx in a penknife format. Dismantled the gadget to remove a 20 I think. This approx 4 cm torx will just fit into space between door arch and seat.
    Remove seat itself for more room.
    Succcessfully removed black inner door skin.
    Observe the electric motor and 3 torx screws c 30. Take my advice DO NOT remove these screws. They hold a motor which winds in a cable round a spool while releasing same cable from spool. One end pulls window up and other pulls window down.
    WIND WINDOW DOWN.electrically. before disconnection of motor plug.

    When window down observe horizontal blue window carrier through a samll inspection port.
    Look more carefully and you will see a WHITE PLASTIC CIRCLE c 1cm in diameter. It goees through the blue carrier and then through window.
    Look closer and you will see its not a full circle O but a very complete C. ie an O with a split.

    Get a small socket c 4 or 6 or a screwdriver bit for a magnetic holder.
    Push the white C plastic stud towards the door skin. It takes a hairraising amount of pressure but then it pops out and drops. Collect it later.
    The window is not disconnected from the carrier which raises and lowers the window under motor control.

    Disconnect motor electrical plug.
    Disconnect 10 10mm bolts.

    In theory the inner door card metal will now release. however you can pull slide window glass upwards out of way.

    Pull metal door card away from long metal locking rod and slip out slip out door opening cable and remove card. You have to watch upper part of window carrier which fouls the top part of card.

    You will get extreme difficulty getting card off without punching out 3 plastic rivets on rear or top right of card.

    The card will lift away.

    I tried everything pushing pulling the lock mechanism but it would not release.

    Application of Neanderthal Technology. a XXXXING big Hammer and chisel to electronically controlled locking mechanism finally sprung the door

    When door is open the fun begins.

    It is virtually impossible to a remove the old lock mechanism despite removing two torx screws in door arch.

    The window guide can be accessed via a inspection hole. remove lower 10 mm bolt under arch. Remove 10mm bolt from just below window frame and horizontal lower window frame junction.

    This will give just enough movement to allow retrieval of old lock mechanism.

    However door handle is attached to lock mechanism.

    Door handle rear section can be released via an inspection hole. This hole is covered up by the black rubber seal round door at level of lock.

    The segment is released by turning the 20mm Torx screw anticlockwise about 5 turns. proceed slowly until the segment can be prised from door.
    When this is done you have acess to cable attached to lock mechanism. Prise out the black plastic grommet and the mechanism is free to be recovered.

    OBSERVE THE HOLE from which the segent has ben recovered. (I was working on right side of car. may be opposite on left side)
    You will see two small lugs at 1 oclock and 7 oclock.
    Screw the torx 20 clockwise and observethat the lugs move to 12 oclock and 6 oclock.
    Now screw back torx to 1 and 7 again. Observe the segment. You will see two raised spuds.
    Moving the torx 20 moves the lugs which catch the spuds and lock it in place.
    Be careful as moving the torx excessively can release the rotating ring with the lugs on it which means recovering the entire door handle and backing mechanism which is why I am warning you.
    The new lock can just about squeeze past window frame and then be reassembled.
    This is not a job for an amateur mechanic so be aware that it will take days.

    james mccue - Aug 24, 2011 @ 3:05 pm
  • This is a great description with excellent illustrations that prepared me for the task of repairing the fault that had recently developed with the passenger's door lock on my 2007 Passat -- The door couldn't be opened from outside, but all other functions remained OK. Just as I was about to embark on the repair, the problem went away but returned a few days later however the door can once again be opened from outside. Can anyone provide a clue to the likely cause, and likely need to pull the lock out for a lasting cure?
    Chris Whitworth (Australia - Aug 13, 2011 @ 7:09 pm
  • Great job! Resoldering the bad solder joints fixed the problem of all 4 windows spontaneously rolling down with the ignition off. Even as an engineer, no way I could have figured it out on my own.
    Tom, USA - Aug 8, 2011 @ 2:32 pm
  • Hi, can someone pls help, I am unable to open my driver's door in my VW bora 2001. please help.
    Frank Tasinga - Jul 19, 2011 @ 10:34 am
  • I'm not sure who you guys are - but you are kings!
    Just fixed my "jam locked" Golf mkIV passenger door.
    Had to open it by one person turning on and off the central locking while the other banging beneath the handle in order to get the door open.
    Had 3 cracked solder joints. Can't believe I got it all back together. It also fixed a nagging alarm problem. Cheers - a beer well earned
    Eyal - Tel Aviv Israel - Jul 17, 2011 @ 10:03 am
  • Great instructiuons. My trouble was the door barrel. All fixed and working fine.
    Shaun - Jul 1, 2011 @ 8:05 pm
  • My 2004 wagon right rear door is doing the same thing, won't open and won't lock. but because it's closed I can't get the inner door trim off. Is there any way of doing this without damage?

    Trevor - Jul 1, 2011 @ 4:11 pm
  • Great job, one of the best "how to's" I read. I followed the instructions to board level then found all OK. The problem with mine (2005 UK Passat) was the motor mounting points/connections, when pulled out and examined close up burn marks could be seen. I polished with 600 grade wetordry then sprayed contact cleaner/lubricant, it works first time everytime now. I have this fault on 3/4 doors on the 2005 but not on my 2002 Passat so must be an "improvement" they made!!!!
    John Caldicott, UK - Jun 2, 2011 @ 11:12 pm
  • Is Radio Shack # 275-016 the correct microswitch to replace the one for the door lock on the rear door of an 01 passat ?
    Bob Haines - Jun 2, 2011 @ 6:24 pm
  • nice write up, did it this weekend
    thanks for all your help
    lincoln1003 - May 29, 2011 @ 5:48 pm
  • 2008 Passat, passenger rear door is not accessible from outside of the vehicle. I always need to unlock from the inside latch.
    I thought that the problem could be related to the child safety overide switch. After turning on the child override I am locked out of the door from inside and outside.
    I am looking for some help to get the door open and solve the problem

    Patrick Knytych Oak Lawn, Illinois USA - May 21, 2011 @ 7:57 pm
  • I went to PEPBOYS and bought the OEM 12 point spline set which included the M8.
    USA - May 7, 2011 @ 2:15 pm
  • Excellent write-up. Fixed my 2002 Passat window (installed new regulator as the cable was frayed - clips were fine), and microswitch on the driver's door latch (car always thought the door was closed for several years. Bought swtich from Radio-Shack (275-016). Had to route out the holes a bit on the latch assembly a bit and enlarge the the mounting holes on the microswitch a bit, but it works and only cost $3 vs $200 for new door latch assembly.
    Paul Vovk - May 4, 2011 @ 10:49 pm
  • Help please-- lock cylinder not staying in-- seems there is a lock mechanism ring...also called a "base plate" in the ebahn manual.. that the torx 20 screw pushes on to keep it in place.

    I've looked around and connot find one of these. Does anyone know where to get one? Need to get this along with the lock mechanism replaced... so my wife won't demand a new car. ;>)

    Great instructions and write up for all of this-- very handy! Thanks again!

    Alan - May 2, 2011 @ 7:37 pm
  • Fantastic article!!!! I am so happy, I managed to find the screw for the lock cylinder in the bottom of the car door, so now my lock in my passat 1999 works again!
    Knut from norway - Apr 29, 2011 @ 2:23 am
  • Hi. Can anyone help me, I cant open the rear door passenger, Any recommendations?
    jorge - Apr 27, 2011 @ 12:13 pm
  • I need this info. But at the moment I can't get to the failed locking mechanism as the door is closed and the locking mechanism prevents opening from inside or out. I can just about reach the actuator throught the inside panel but I need to know if and how to release the mechanism. Is there a catch to flip or slide? Any videos out there of the un it working.?
    Jimbo - Apr 22, 2011 @ 7:34 am
  • hi

    I dirve a 2001 jetta, I want to now, how take off the rear lock to replase

    MAURICIO RODRIGUEZ Chihuahua, Mex - Apr 15, 2011 @ 7:44 pm
  • This has been invaluable today. Had to pull the drivers door apart to find out what was wrong with the window winder (snapped wire). Without this, I'd have spent ages looking for a couple of fixings to get it all apart.
    Great stuff thanks.
    Nick Burt (UK) - Apr 2, 2011 @ 1:37 pm
  • Thanks for documenting this! Seems to have done the trick resoldering all the dry joints on my 2000 Golf. Window bracket bolts on mine were torx rather than 10mm socket. That might be because they were replaced when the original brackets failed (common fault). Also, there were seven T10 bolts plus a T6 bolt on the end of the lock itself. Fortunately I had a T6 driver kicking around but would have been a real pain otherwise.
    Duncan - Apr 1, 2011 @ 7:16 am
  • i did this today wish i found this before hand .. now my drivers door wont lock though after this work any ideas
    chris k - Mar 19, 2011 @ 11:09 pm
  • ha working on a 03 v5 passat right rear door actuator failed doors locked closed got inner panels off can see ta actuator but still cant get door open ,ideas?
    brett new zealand - Mar 15, 2011 @ 9:32 pm
  • A good article and a great help. I have a 2006 Jetta TDI and the front passengers door lock (RHD) has driven me crazy for a couple of years. Sometimes I could unlock it, sometimes not, and when it could not be unlocked with a remote signal, the latch inside the car would not work either. Every time it went for service and the problem was brought to the attention of the mechanic, the lock behaved perfectly and so nothing was done. Eventually I took it out and pulled it apart but my solder connections were fine and the remote reponse to the key fob signal was perfect. However, when I reassembled the system, it displayed the same fault again. Then I noticed that the small screw which holds the two plate cams in place on the section of the lock which has the two electric motors in it had worked free and the metal cam was falling about and failing to engage with the slot you can see in the lower left of the left hand section of the two parts of the pic you have marked the torx fastening screw on. You can see the slot a little to the right of the small white plastic square section in the corner. The is a scalloped section on the end of the shaft the screw enters and this provides the drive for the metal cam. Once I repositioned the springs and the cam on the shaft and in the slot it worked like a bought one. My advice here is to look at this section first, it's an easy fix.
    Peter Russ (Australia) - Mar 14, 2011 @ 10:17 pm
  • awesome instructions that enabled me to replace the inner door handle bowden cable. the door window motor decided that 1/3rd up was the top of travel, but then i put the passenger side down and up and then the drivers worked again as well.
    bruce, colorado, usa - Mar 13, 2011 @ 6:19 pm
  • A million thank you's! Great job! With this manual I sucessfuly rapaired lock mechanizm in my VW Passat B5 '98. Nice!
    Udało się! W razie potrzeby wspomogę zainteresowanych!
    Brada (Poland) - Jan 28, 2011 @ 10:46 am
  • Great tips, new readers make sure you read all the comments as there are superseded part numbers and possible need of a T8 tool on some models or years for that pesky screw on the side of the case before you can separate the halves. Found that M8 bit (not socket) at Checker in a (Performance Tool) Serrated Triple Square Wrench set of four M6,8,10 and 12 for $5.00. My 2002 Passat had door open alarm go off while driving/ no alarm when driver’s door was open while running and the alarm would go off intermittently while parked. Bought new 3B1-837-015-AS $215.00 at VW (ouch). Does not come with the black support brace, had to remove rivet from old and use bolt and nylon nut to reattach to new one. The two pins where an issue as well, they did not want to lock back into the panel. Only able to get one to hold. Selling car anyway. Oh if the window falls all the way down like mine did because the darn auto down function engaged trying to bring it down 2/3rd's as instructed, your still ok just a little harder to remove the metal panel (glass was in the way at bottom). Remove glass after panel is out and raise window mech back up to 2/3rd's when ready to install. New replacement part cleared all issues. Much thanks.
    Steve Jenkins - Jan 22, 2011 @ 8:48 pm
  • I have a 2005 and I have everything loose, but I still can't get the metal panel off. It seems to be catching by the latch. Is this a little different on the 05's? I can look from the top and it looks like the lock mechanism might be catching on the inner door but I can't move/rotate the panel enough to get it out. Any suggestions would be great.
    Kevin - Jan 14, 2011 @ 1:32 pm
  • Thanks for the info , i have a 99 Passat in the UK ,the rear door would not close , it just bounced open , the lock just would not secure the door making the car undrivable and not in a position to get MOT, door held shut with rope ! I followed the the instructions and ended up resoldering the joints as suggested , all great now
    Differences to the instructions here may help . To release rear door window it has to be let down until you see a white round peg (through the left window runner) that holds the window in place within a white plastic grip , this is viewed through a 2 inch hole in the panel that had a black plastic cover, initially its quite hard to see, the window is let down nearly all the way. The peg is 2 parts an inner and outer. it can be tapped out and will probably fall into the door. if you prise the metal door panel from the door (after the 10 bolts are removed )you can view this (with the window down)so you can see what is going on. To put back put the 2 peg parts together , line up the hole in the window and tap back, it took me about 3 attempts, not nice ! It may help to thread the 2 parts onto a long allen key so its easier to line up with the window hole. Tap it back gently, dont push all the way through ! Also i just pulled the glass up out of the grip out of the way , and left it there in the door , you dont have to remove window trim etc for this job. Really not sure about the rear handle removal (no lock there in the rear door so no screw as in the instructions needs to be removed(one with cap). I prised the plastic cover off (the bit where a door lock would fit in the front door) and then prised the metal casting out the door with a screwdriver but i damaged the paintwork. You have to do this to remove the cable from the outer door pull to release the inside panel . Maybe a car manual explains this part as i made it up as i went along but damaged the car.
    The circuit board was slightly different but instructions were fine. Only 2 microswitches on the board.
    Hope that helps !

    Ken Elms - Jan 14, 2011 @ 4:23 am
  • Great instructions thank you, but my problem remains so have just bought a replacement mechanism which will be doddle to fit thanks to the pictures.
    Also had a similar problem with a 2002 Passat, whenever doors unlocked and the boot opened, after thirty seconds locks slammed shut and the alarm went off. Opening other doors did not follow this pattern. Quickly traced to a faulty microswitch in the tailgate latch so the car sensed the tailgate was locked when it wasn't, about fifteen pounds sterling for a new latch, problem solved. So not always the driver's door mechanism!
    Ken, Catalunya - Jan 9, 2011 @ 6:48 am
  • Saved me a ton of headache! Good write up and very useful directions and topic.
    Tyler - Houston TX USA - Jan 2, 2011 @ 2:30 pm
  • Excellent writeup, I found two cracked solder joints (pin 5 and pin 7). The photos were very helpful.
    Gary Sloman, California - Dec 24, 2010 @ 9:51 am
  • We ALL need to report our problems to the National Highway & Transportation Administration......
    I too suffer this problem with my 2000 VW Jetta Tdi
    titus1129, USA - Dec 22, 2010 @ 4:49 pm
  • Thanks for the write-ups. Did the door lock replacement and engine coolant temperature sensor this weekend.
    Michael Oglesby, USA - Nov 15, 2010 @ 10:39 pm
  • Thanks a lot! My Golf 4 had two solder joints cracked. Fixed it and works fine again
    Ronald Z Netherlands - Oct 22, 2010 @ 10:02 am
  • Thanks instructions. Seat Toledo 2000 problem was corrosion on pcb key swithes tracks. Jumper wires used repairing.
    Make Finland - Oct 13, 2010 @ 9:26 am
  • THANKS!!! 99 Passat with non-working power locks on left rear door and right front door -- disassembled as suggested, and sure enough, bad solder joints. Re-soldered them, and they magically started working. One caution that caused me a bit of a panic: I did not note the position (as suggested in the write-up) of the Bowden cable between the door handle and the lock mechanism. When I put everything back together, neither door would open!!! The Bowden cable was too tight!!! As it turns out, you can release the Bowden cable by pulling out the door handle and releasing the piece attached to the handle, allowing the door to be opened from the inside. Once the door is open, the handle screw can be removed, and it just takes a couple of tries to get it in the right position.
    Craig Forney - Sep 19, 2010 @ 11:30 pm
  • Awesome fix!!! Unbelievable how many VW-group cars have this problem. My Golf 4 had the exact same problem. My symptom was that sometimes the bell that alarms you your lights are on when you\'re exiting the car doesn\'t work. And since I drive with the lights on during daytime, on numerous accounts I didn\'t notice my lights were still on and ended up with a dead battery... Quite anoying. I stumbled across this webpage and gave it a try. The exact same pin was faulty in exact the same way. Unfortunatly due to crappy VW design, one of the plastic brackets, that slide up and down the rail, guiding the glass up and down, broke when I was trying to loosen the hex on the clamp that holds the window glass. What dumbass designer had them made in plastic!!! and then used lock tight on the hex tightening the clamp... Of course this part is not sold seperately. You have to buy a complete power window set GRRR. Designing the bracket that mounts the locking mechanism to the door plate in flimsy plastic is not to bright either. It had already started to crack and the hole for the rivet on the lock side has completely torn off!!! I fixed that with a m5 washer, a bolt and a nut. Of course the studs fastening the bracket to the plate broke on disassembly... Luckily I had some more m5 washers, bolts and nuts, to fix that too. I am still figuring out a way to fix the sliding bracket, but at least my door locking mechanism is tip top, thanks largely to this site. How did you ever figure out this problem? You must be a persistant DIY-er... Without the help of your guidance I would never ever been able to solve this one... I am very gratefull.
    Mark de Jonge (netherlands) - Aug 29, 2010 @ 8:36 am
  • Just did the lock cylinder opening procedure. I have an 04 TDI, so the cylinder is different. It requires a Torx T8, so get that too, and the micro switch is a different model so I\'ll have to order it and redo the whole procedure again next weekend.
    Sloan USA - Aug 22, 2010 @ 3:30 pm (website)
  • Would it be possible to make a similar write-up for the rear passenger doors?
    It worked like a charm on the front door, but getting the rear window out seems a challenge.
    With similar fotoos and the step by step instructions it would be excellent!

    In all the comments to this article I found a variety of suggestions and statements that I hope will allow me to take the aluminum panel out tomorrow to get to the lock (as it will be Sunday, I hope those \"dowels\" will not break).
    Will (Holland) - Aug 7, 2010 @ 5:02 pm
  • This all sounds fantastic but how do you get the door open if it\'s locked closed?
    gez mason - Aug 4, 2010 @ 2:20 pm
  • My 2000 passat only has a valet key no remote. The red light flashes by the lock and unlocks the passenger dr only and when I put key in ignition the care wont start and the car starts to beep alarm sound? now the key turns all the way around in the driver door anyone know what it might be?
    Enola u.s. - Jul 28, 2010 @ 12:36 pm
  • My lock jammed up hard the other day. How can I know if it\'s the cylinder only, or something else it\'s pushing? The electronics have been intermittant for years anyway. Just wondering if I will need both parts.
    Gerry MA, USA - Jul 23, 2010 @ 3:24 pm
  • Really good description, without which I would not even have thought of doing the job myself. Note for european owbers, that my early tdi estate (96) right hand drive originally shipped to the UK, does not have a drivers door lock in yellow & black, it is totally grubby black, and the side torx screw is one size smaller than the others, so a full set of torx bits is needed. There are other differences on the external arrangements of the locking mechanism but with the detailed description and some common sense you can find the way through. I found one of the soldered pins looking decidedly \"iffy\" so re-soldered \'em all. Now I can lock the car from the driver\'s door again (the remote still doesn\'t work) and the alarm doesn\'t go off if I don\'t unlock the hatch first. So far the windows work again, although a couple of times they all opened when I unlocked the car and opened the driver\'s door! My Passat has 217000 miles on the clock so it was not worth spending money on a new lock, but after following these clear instructions I now have a car I can live with once again. Thank you again, Kent
    Kent Fleisher La France - Jul 18, 2010 @ 12:02 pm
  • Problem! my screws holding the locking mechanism have lost their thread and I can\'t remove them, I have done everything else on these fab instructions but cant go any further without these off - so close yet so far, what a rupert I am.

    Can anyone help, any ideas at all would be much appreciated???

    Rupert - Jul 17, 2010 @ 2:37 pm
  • Hi guys, I have the following situation. I cant open the rear door driver sde. Even with the locks up cant open it. About a month ago the door opeded by tapping near the lock module two or three times. So I knew that thre were some problems with the lock module. Then I google it and found this great write up, but now I cantopen the door even tapping near the lock module helps. Any recommendations?

    Angel L. Nieves - Jul 17, 2010 @ 1:03 pm
  • Any info on sun roof leaks?
    Estelle - Jul 14, 2010 @ 2:03 pm
  • Hi, i tried to do this myslef, but i have lost the retaining clip which helps hold the locking barrel or cyliner in place, i was wondering if you knew where to get one from?
    shane (australia) - Jul 4, 2010 @ 9:23 pm
    TOMEK DUBAI - Jun 30, 2010 @ 1:02 am
  • Thanks for your write-ups! It\'s people like yourself that make the internet a great place! just finished with your guide to replacing the cv-axle... now it\'s time to do the lock.
    Great work!
    Michael, USA - Jun 12, 2010 @ 5:57 pm
  • Hi, Thanks for the instructions, I am a DIyer, took me about four hours to actually strip and refit, the problem was some of the tooling Luckily managed to get the 12spline M8Bit, without which could not have proceeded. Today being a Sunday our hardware stores are all closed!! One guy was open till about lunch time, and just my luck had a set of bits!! The R&r is not a problem, my problem is a mechanical one. The plastic piece under the locking cam has disintegrated! and the cam now gets stuck in the locked position(it has a small spring which tends to push the cam stopper back into position when the lock is released. Unfortunately could not get a spare so may have to buy the whole lock!! Great tips!, might be good if you can number the pics, as others who are not so mechanically inclined, may find it confusing. Thanks Pal!!

    KU - Sri Lanka - May 30, 2010 @ 1:17 am
  • Great job, saved me a lot of trouble. Thanks alot.
    Lars Birkenfeldt - May 17, 2010 @ 3:39 am
  • Can anyone tell me how to get into a 57 plate passat when the ke has been locked in the boot?
    zm - May 10, 2010 @ 7:43 am
  • Rear door in dead lock! remove door card and window (Remove grommet under motor hammer out 2 part plastic rivet, middle first) remove cover from lock and unscrew the small torx you can see. Lever open cover and turn the wheel you can se with a screwdriver until you hear the click. hopefully door is now unlocked!
    Stuart (Scotland) - May 7, 2010 @ 3:22 pm
  • Six years later, and you are still helping people with this write up. Nice! 99 Golf, Gen IV - pulled the lock mech out tonight and found the same two pins on the connector had cracked joints. Thanks for the write up - I would never have attempted it without it. One door down, one to go.


    Jim from Sydney Australia - Apr 20, 2010 @ 6:18 am
  • Thanks so much for this great set of instructions. The rear inner door handle was not working, and after removing the foor trim per your instructions I found the cable had come loose from its slot.. Fixed and back together in 10 minutes! Thanks again
    dan in california - Apr 17, 2010 @ 1:15 pm
  • Thanks for a very useful tutorial.

    There was one bit of info missing which I hope will help other people. I had to strip the door down because the \"door closed\" microswitch mentioned in step 16 had broken. With the switch broken, it was unclear as to the correct relationship between the door, the switch and the switch connection. Especially when replacing it with a changeover switch.

    So just to be clear:
    door open = switch lever depressed = switch connected
    door closed = switch lever released = switch disconnected

    Andy Juniper (UK) - Apr 14, 2010 @ 2:49 pm

    Hi. Can anyone help me. The lock has jammed in the locked position on my rear passenger door so that the door cannot be opened. This in turn means that I cannot gain access to the lock mechanism or the screws required to remove the door trim. Can anyone suggest any methods to at least release the door lock without smashing the door trim, etc? The other door locks operate perfectly in the car and lock/unlock on pressing the key fob or turning the key in the door. Any help would be much appreciated as I have a wife and two kids who need car seats - getting in and out of the car is no fun when a rear door is out of action :0(

    Scott (Wales) - Aug 9, 2006 @ 6:32 pm
    BRIAN UK - Apr 12, 2010 @ 2:42 pm
  • Thank you, i just finished fixing my GOLF IV and your guide has been simply invaluable.
    The whole job took me eight hours, since i\'m not a mechanic (i\'m into IT, so digging into bolts and gears is not very common :D).
    I had particular trouble after accessing the circuit board: i opened it on the wrong side, and all the mechanisms went round my desktop. It took me a couple of hours just to figure out how to place the rounded gear connecting to the outer key-mandril and the upper rail (the one connected to the rounded gear itself). I couldn\'t find a picture anywhere on the internet showing how all these parts should be placed before reassembly!
    And, to complete the unfortunate events, while reassembling the door parts the key mandril locking mechanism just fell down into the door...

    Anyway, thank you again :)
    Nicola (Italy) - Apr 8, 2010 @ 12:09 pm
  • Have the same problems with my SEAT Toledo 53 plate. Second window regulator (both front doors already done) and now have a dodgy rear door which may or may not open/lock when the mood takes it.
    Guess I have all the bits left over from the VW crap parts bin!
    Dreading the job as despite your excellent guide I know what a bugger it is to take the door apart and there are sharp edges everywhere!
    Daz - Apr 6, 2010 @ 10:58 am
  • Thanks again for your support to the VW passat community with the taligentx website. I referred to your notes for the door locking issue. I discovered that one of the switches is bad, and I am reluctant to modify one to fit as that could be a lot of work for nothing (not to mention the extra R&R). Do you know where I might be able to get an identical switch? The one I removed from the circuitboard appear to be a \"cherry\" brand (embossed in plastic) and the only numbers in white ink are \"8A\" and \"28\". Have you or anyone directly replaced this with the same? Looking for a recommended source, preferrably in Canada.

    Also, important to note that when describing the lock mechanism disassembly, your instructions should read #3 then #6 then #7 then #4 then #5 then #8, and the photos should be arranged accordingly. You cannot take the two portions apart until performing steps #6 and 7 first.

    maxxx in Canada - Mar 28, 2010 @ 5:12 pm
  • Is the removal of rear passat metal door skins the same as the front?
    Nathaniel Fuller UK - Mar 15, 2010 @ 9:23 am (website)
  • My 2001 Passat\'s rear passenger door power lock and power window do not work. All other doors and windows work fine. Thoughts???
    Steve Canada - Mar 14, 2010 @ 12:35 pm
  • I have the same problem with the driver\'s lock.Sometimes (but the last days all the time) when i was trying to lock the car from the driver\'s side, it was locking mechanically only the driver\'s door and not the other three. When i was trying to do this from the co-driver\'s door everything was o.k!! I took it off opened it and soldered the joints. When i putted back seemed to work o.k but it didn\'t!! I mean that that when i tried to lock the door all the doors seemed to be locked, but in fact the lamp from the immobilizer didn\'t start blinking and when i pulled the outside handle the door opened!!! But the other 3 were o.k locked!!!
    Please can you help!!! Can you imagine what went wrong?????
    Thanks for all your help!!!!!
    miaritis georgios - Mar 12, 2010 @ 4:56 pm
  • The repair set was about 25$$
    againts the full lock mechanism 400$
    Turkiz(Hungary) - Feb 17, 2010 @ 6:48 pm
  • http://www.skodaszerviz.hu/akciok/mikrokapcs.pdf

    but this reapir set helped .

    maybe you can find similar in your country

    thank you all
    Turkiz(Hungary) - Feb 17, 2010 @ 6:45 pm
  • I took the door apart and got the lock assy. out and looked at the solder joints they have a red coating on my 2005 Passat TDI all was good. My problem was in the micro switch with the blue and red wire. I bought a new micro switch at Radio Shack. Some screws to hold the new switch and soldered the new switch in after some drilling out the holes to match the new micro switch. Installed it back and works like new. This write up was a large help pictures are worth a millon. THANKS
    Jason Sutton USA - Feb 13, 2010 @ 8:42 am
  • Message for Bob Lawson (or anyone!)
    I have the same problem on my \'99 Passat - although on the drivers side rear door, i.e. I opened the door now it wont close and just keeps bouncing open again. Anyway I have taken the inner trim off but I can\'t see how the glass is removed. My \"Haynes book of lies\" says to undo the clamp bolt but there isn\'t one on the rear door - well not that I can see anyway, I have moved the window all the way up and down but can only see a (I think) nylon carrier which seems to carry the nippled ends of a drive cable. I suspect that this needs to be disconnected but I don\'t want to do it without confirmation...

    Any help/advice greatly appreciated - you can reply here or direct to exedriver@hotmail.co.uk thanks

    Paul Little (UK) - Feb 13, 2010 @ 6:38 am
  • Hi,
    I was having trouble with my 1999 B5 Passat\'s rear passenger door, possibly temperature related due to freezing conditions. Door \"bounced back\" when attempts made to close it. made all checks on solder joints, visual, no problems, ohmeter, no high resistance. Latching mechanism wouldn\'t hold on first latch position, so potentially dangerous for my grandson. I purchased a later model lock, from a B5.5, and this fitted, but wouldn\'t unlock properly. Indicator button rose up completely, then went down to about half mast, leaving door unopenable from outside, but could be opened from inside. I ended up separating the mechanical and electrical modules, and building a \"hybrid\" from the original electrical part, and the newer mechanical part. Worked a treat!! I\'m now expert in Passat door card and window regulator removal. Cost me £25 about $40 to fix, and several hours work, but I didn\'t have to listen to a mechanic justifying the high cost of replacing poorly designed parts. This is the first car I\'ve had to replace a broken lock on, and it\'s not even a high miler! Info from this site was really useful in the stripdown (that bloody glass retainer!)
    Bob Lawson - Feb 8, 2010 @ 3:03 am
  • I have 2003 passat, but there wasn \'t electrical problem the opening sensor seized, and the signal wheel damaged

    but thx by the way
    Turkiz(Hungary) - Feb 4, 2010 @ 10:00 am
  • Driver\'s door seems to be now updated to 3B1 837 015 AS. I
    have mine, but haven\'t done the swap out yet.
    Gary A - May 26, 2008 @ 5:53 pm
  • My man! It worked! I had exactly the same problem, and it turned out to be the same cracked pin nr 7! Detected it visually, just because I had seen your photo.I re-soldered all of the 6 ea pins, and it worked perfectly afterwards!
    Thanks thanks thanks
    Jo Rune Hole, Norway - Apr 1, 2008 @ 5:28 pm
  • Thank you so much! I fixed my son\'s (back left) door on which the locking button kept on \"popping up\" when I tried to lock it. I also fixed my drivers door (front right) which didn\'t know when it was open! Both down to cracked solder joints where the main connector joins the circuit board. In the UK the whole lock mechanism is black plastic.
    Best regards
    Simon, United Kingdom - Nov 12, 2007 @ 11:06 am
  • Hi,
    Thx a lot! I soldering the switches, the lock mechanisme is now working OK again1
    Regards, Joop van de Munt
    Joop van de Munt, Holland - Oct 13, 2007 @ 8:06 am
  • Thank you thank you thank you. My wife\'s 2004 Passat rear driver\'s side door would not open from the outside. Thinking it might be the child-protect, I turned the knob, so then it wouldn\\\'t open from the outside or the inside. I took the door apart with your excellent help and photos, and found that the cable (didn\\\'t know there even was a cable), had fallen from the handle. I pulled the cable with needle nose pliers to open the door, followed your instructions to remove the lock set, and reattached the cable. There goes a year of frustration. Now I\'m going to permanently disable the child lock mechanism!!!

    Thanks so much,
    Dave Englund
    David Englund, US Texas - Oct 7, 2007 @ 12:21 pm
  • Thanks. I\'m in the middle of replacing my 3rd of four window regulators. (I guess not too bad after 7 years of regular use...

    You\'d think it would get easier and faster each time I do this job, but no! VW has special challenges and nuances each and every time for each different doors regulator! Thanks for having this page, though. I\'ve referred to it each time, and it\'s made a PITA job easier. Also, when it\'s done, I just think about all of the $$ I saved by doing it myself.
    Mark - Jun 30, 2007 @ 12:45 pm (website)
  • 2001-1/2 Passat, micro switch that has red and blue wires on it failed. computer thought door was open all the time. It is actuated by the door lock cam, plunger on micro switch was worn away enough to lodge partially out of switch bore. I have a factory manual... but why bother, your instructions were flawless and much appreciated. BTW all other switches and solder joints were fine. Thanks again Wayne
    Wayne Overbeck, santa caruz, ca - Jun 25, 2007 @ 7:05 pm
  • Back again, I fixed last Saturday the problem was the microswitch at the bottom of the locking mechanism not the soldered joins. It was full of dust cause the black elastic cover of the lock mechanism not to work well with the microswitch. I cleaned but it seems that the elastic cover is worn and it will cause problems again in future. I will changed with a new door lock in next problem.

    Thanks anyway again for your nice job (photos etc)
    Stavros Greece - Jun 18, 2007 @ 1:50 am (website)
  • Thanks for the great writeup. The solder problem was the same on my Golf 4 front passenger door. Any tips on how to get the panel out of the rear door of the Golf? I assume it is much the same for the passat. The rear panel doesn\'t come off because of a different assembly holding the window to the panel.
    Paul Greeff - South Africa - Jun 16, 2007 @ 6:37 am (website)
  • Thanks a lot very helpful information! They had asked 200 Euros to replace the lock i will try to fix it by myself on Saturday I will be back to inform you.

    Stavros Greece - Jun 14, 2007 @ 12:26 pm (website)
  • The updated part number for the 01 and up LEFT or Drivers Side(USA) lock mechanism is \"3B1 837 015 AS\"
    TK - Apr 30, 2007 @ 3:45 pm
  • I couldnt have done this job without your site. Thanks
    Rabsy - Apr 11, 2007 @ 1:11 am
  • I think your site is very helpfull!
    I\'m having a similar problem with my B5 but I don\'t think my problem are the solder joints but the switches. Can you let me know what the difference is between the partnumbers pre VIN 3B-X-090000 3B1 837 015 E & post VIN 3B-X-090001
    3B1 837 015 J ? Greetings from The Netherlands, Philip
    Philip - Mar 8, 2007 @ 1:05 pm
  • Went through the above with a 00 Bora Tdi - the lock seemed almost identical , just that it has a 4th microswitch but I couldn\'t figure what it was doing as there seemed there was nothing to operate it . Unfortunately couldn\'t find anything wrong - all connections seemed fine and read 0 on the multimeter for resistance .
    So I\'ll have to go further - but this was an excellent article .
    Padraig Flanagan ,Ireland - Mar 6, 2007 @ 4:40 pm
  • Thank you very much, your site has been a great help.
    All the solder joints on the right side see last picture were cracked.
    After resoldering all of them my problems were fixed. Ill be back the next time my passat has got a problem. THNX.
    the Netherlands - Feb 10, 2007 @ 7:43 am
  • Thanks for a great description and pictures. I\'ve just did my door. Surprisingly the same cracked solder joint problem, weir. It was hard to detect the crack and I did disassembled and reassembled the lock mechanism a couple of times. Multimeter is indispensable. It showed odd 2-20 ohm resistance on the broken soldering while 0.7 ohm on the others which I think is normal.

    Thanks again. Without these pictures I would end up helpless.
    Mariusz - Dec 30, 2006 @ 12:06 pm
  • I got 2 of this door locks from friend to se if I can fix them, but in one the problem was a broke plastic lever inside the unit that make to get jammed.
    I have plenty of pics that show everything:

    Also, we have a forum were we are talking about this:

    Isaac F - Panama Rep. of Panama - Oct 30, 2006 @ 1:48 pm (website)
  • My Passat TDI 1997 Passenger Door wasnt always locking wen I pressed my key fob button.
    Found you invaluable Website, and printed out the instructions and pictures.
    I couldnt have done it better myself. You are Top Guy.
    Have you worked for VW or something? Its kind of like a magician revealing how he does his tricks.
    AND this trick did save my Wallet and also made me feel great, once everything was back to normal.

    My fault wasnt to do with cracked solder. It was a stuck slider mechanism (Picture 16).

    I just used a bit of grease and all was good.

    Many thanks


    James (WALES) - Oct 23, 2006 @ 3:29 pm
  • Damn this site is good, im still strugling with the lockmechanism bolts tho.. they are sitting so damn hard (on all the doors!!!) :(.. but this site rocks!
    Rob (Norway) - Sep 19, 2006 @ 2:39 pm
  • Thanks! I\'m not convinced that i permanently fixed the problem, but at least everything is working properly at the moment. One thing to note that was slightly different on my 2000 Passat was the screw on the side of the lock assembly was a T8 Torx screw, not T10.

    I found the 12 point star bit at NAPA. They call it an 8mm serrated wrench, NAPA brand, item number 2304.
    Eric (North Carolina) - Sep 16, 2006 @ 1:30 pm
  • 1. Begin by lowering the door window glass completely

    Ha ha ha - when am I going to learn to read the published literature FIRST?

    The forward window holder broke on my 1999, so I just started ripping into things (how hard can it be right?) and now I have a pile of parts on the driveway, at least some of which were removed unnecessarily Doh! I KNEW those big plastic inserts were there for a reason and after reading this I know why.

    Can we at least all agree to call the aluminum cover the \'pie-plate\'

    Thanks and so far I\'m up to step #10 Completion within the hour? I dunno about that. . . .
    Helga - Texas - Aug 26, 2006 @ 8:55 am (website)
  • Hi. Can anyone help me. The lock has jammed in the locked position on my rear passenger door so that the door cannot be opened. This in turn means that I cannot gain access to the lock mechanism or the screws required to remove the door trim. Can anyone suggest any methods to at least release the door lock without smashing the door trim, etc? The other door locks operate perfectly in the car and lock/unlock on pressing the key fob or turning the key in the door. Any help would be much appreciated as I have a wife and two kids who need car seats - getting in and out of the car is no fun when a rear door is out of action :0(
    Scott (Wales) - Aug 9, 2006 @ 5:32 pm
  • Thanks for your invaluable contribution. This problem plagued me for months.

    I had my \'99 Golf IV passenger door disassembled in 30 minutes. Fixing the lock kept me busy for 2 hours though because I kept on getting up to check on my car (don\'t want to leave an open car unattended for too long in SA :-)). Still have to do two others. It would seem that the fourth microswitch fails the most. Three failed so far in my car.
    Paul Greeff from South-Africa - Aug 3, 2006 @ 6:15 am (website)
  • Cheers mate,

    Great quality step by step instructions. Would never have attempted it without them. My problem was on the passenger door and it too was a cracked solder joint. I reflowed the joints and put everything back together worked like a treat.
    Kieran Northern Ireland - Jul 29, 2006 @ 5:35 pm
  • Hello,

    My name is jerry and I live in the Netherlands. For some time I had the problem that my driver site-door-lock wouldn\'t lock from the inside and when I locked it via remote-control from the outside the red LED in the door wouldn\'t flash.

    Via a friend I was directed to your website where is seemed the exact same problem was described and a fix was provided.

    After some months driving with this problem I now had the time (vacation) to start this fix. After aprox. 5 or 6 hours I was ready and everything works fine until now. The problem was the 3 solder joints on the print where the connecter is plugged. These joints had minor cracks which explains why the problem occurred very often but not always. See pictures which I made after disassembly.

    It took me 5 to 6 hours because one of the two white plastic mounts in which the window is clamped was also cracked so I fixed that also.

    I want to thank you for your support and saving me € 118,- for a new door lock. The revision set for the window mounts was € 42,- so I saved that as well by fixing it myself.

    THANK YOU !!

    Jerry Segers (The Netherlands) - Jul 20, 2006 @ 5:20 am
  • Thanks for the great description. My \"Driver\'s Door Open\" microswitch went bad (the outboard one with the blue and red leads), actuating over bumps in the road. Used this page to get to the switch and cut the leads (open circuit means door is closed). I can live without the warning and the courtesy lamp on the underside of the door, but couldn\'t live with the warning buzzer screaming at me. Thanks again!
    Dave, USA - May 28, 2006 @ 11:56 am
  • Thank your for the info I had similar problem: broken solder joint.
    After having reassembled I have the following sympton: the driver\'s side door lock, where the broken solder joint, can be opened after closing all the doors. What can be the problem?
    Thanks in advance

    Zoltan, Hungary - May 28, 2006 @ 8:14 am
  • Thanks alot, I have a year 2000 Seat Toledo which had a problem with door open switch. Your instructions are invaluable, without which I would not have even attempted the job. The fault was exactly as you said, a dry joint on the printed circuit board. The whole job took about 3 hours. I dod not remove the window glass, instead I just held it up with duct tape.

    Thank you once again for excellent article. You have saved me a bundle!


    Hari Parmar, London England - May 15, 2006 @ 5:32 am
  • great site great information but my problem its bigger all windows dont work what should io do???not the fuse i dont know what could be and the central locking not working too...please help me

    fahid-uk - May 12, 2006 @ 3:24 am
  • Hi

    I was wondering if you could tell me if a key lock cylinder on a passat would be exchangable with a jetta same year.....I talked to the dealership and it\'s the same part number except for 2 letters at the end, they are different.....

    thanks for you help in advance

    Rick Canada - Apr 27, 2006 @ 3:52 pm
  • Thanks! During the last year I had problem locking drivers door on my Passat -99. Thanks to your excellent description and pictures I solved the problem with a soldering iron! (No cost at all). VW seem to make it as difficult as possible to get access to the lock by changing the torx T20 screw (for the lock set) to a 12 point star M4 screw. That tool was VERY hard to find. Once again THANKS!
    Bosse, Sweden - Apr 20, 2006 @ 1:59 am
  • Thanks a lot for the great repair manual, it was exactly the same problem in my Golf 1999 (pin #7). Your manual really saved me a lot of money! Thanks!
    Berry; The Netherlands - Apr 2, 2006 @ 9:39 am
  • Muchas Felicidades por la pagina esta muy bien la informacion no tendras de otras modificaciones gracias
    David Martinez Butron,Queretaro Mexico - Mar 9, 2006 @ 9:04 pm
  • My symptons were very similar to what was described on a 2000 Passat wagen.Of course I went for the lock mechanism replacement. The write-up was near perfect. One problem, I think it\'s worse now. No interior control with the central keypad in the drivers door except for the rear gate.Any ideas? Would appreciate. Thank-you
    Ken Casler, The Adirondacks - Feb 21, 2006 @ 4:34 pm
  • My symptoms are that the doors will \"re-lock\" if only the driver\'s door is opened and occaisionally, the interior lights will come on while driving and the \"door ajar\" chime will sound. I figure this means that the micro switch that detects if the door is ajar is malfunctioning, so I will tear into it and hope it is something simple like cracked solder. I\'ll let you know.
    Dave from Charlottesville VA, USA - Nov 22, 2005 @ 4:30 pm
  • Seriously. Thank you for this page. the Haynes repair manual so totally didn\'t mention anything about the little plastic pins holding the lock mechanism to the carrier, and I would have broken them clean off if i hadn\'t read this page first. thank you thank you thankyou. ^_^
    Ben Wynn - Nov 6, 2005 @ 6:14 pm
  • my solder joints are fine i bought a new lock no joy. its a bora 2001 the drivers door just is not doin anythin will lock manually with key but wont work with fob. all interior lights are ok and workin fine it opens and locks all the other doors just not the drivers one any help would be welcome adamsmart007@tiscali.co.uk. cheers
    adam smart uk - Oct 29, 2005 @ 8:02 am
  • Help please! My \'99 Passat will not turn on, the dome lights do not turn on, the car cannot be locked with the remote keyless entry, and the blinking red lights do not blink after I manually lock the doors. Could this be from a bad lock control module? Cracked soldering? Also, my car experienced some flooding in July \'05 so this may be a possible effect of the 2 inches of water that was in my car after I removed the carpet. Any ideas? Your help is greatly appreciated.

    Israel Silva
    Israel Silva - Oct 9, 2005 @ 8:52 pm
  • I replaced the driver\'s side latch mechanism a few years ago and it went smoothly. I\'m having an issue now with the rear passenger side door. The problem is that I can\'t remove the window--it is attached to the regulator arm via a cheap white plastic rivet, which (1) I can\'t get out and (2) I\'m not sure if I could get it back in if I do manage to get it out. So I can\'t remove the steel plate until I detach and secure the window. Has anyone done this?
    Tom K - Oct 6, 2005 @ 9:46 am (website)
  • Thanks for the excellent instructions with pictures.
    Fixed UK 2001 Jetta drivers door not seen as open (system locks after 30s if key not in ignition, interior light not illuminating etc) by replacing external microswitch, switch 5, internal pcb has 4 switches. Extra one seems to be to detect for deadlocking. Note also that pcb coated with varnish to protect against damp. Fitted a Burgess X4 microswitch after filing the holes.
    Problem with the original (a custom Burgess microswitch probably based on the V4NCSK2. Why not use a standard part?) appears to be the mounting pegs flexing and allowing actuator to miss the cam.

    Eljay, UK - Oct 2, 2005 @ 12:09 pm
  • The pin on the external microswitch that senses door open was also cracked. I purchased a regularly-stocked lever-type microswitch from Radioshack for $2.69 to replace it. It is not an exact fit, but by mounting at an angle with holes further down the bracket, it works. Also I had some difficulty finding the 12-point / spline bit, until I started searching for \"DODECAGONAL\" which is what it\'s called in some popular multi-pack kits that sell various places online for $10.
    Joe Dery - Sep 26, 2005 @ 12:34 pm
  • Thank You from France !!

    Merci de vos informations, j\'ai pu refaire fonctionner mon plafonnier, mon alarme feus allumés et la centralisée marche nickel maintenant. C\'est bien cette petite soudure qui avait craquée.
    Attention lors du démontage, en remttant la fenetre, il vaut mieux être deux
    attention egalement en enlevant les deux supports de serreur sur la plaque en metal, il suffit de taper dessus avec un marteur pour ejecter les deux supports plastique.
    sinon les photos sont super, et tout est ok
    T. TOK - Sep 24, 2005 @ 9:07 am
  • Hello I repaired my Door Lock Mechanism and then found this site. My problem was exactly the same. 3 out of 6 solder joint were cracked. Nice site and Photo`s

    martijn Netherlands - Aug 2, 2005 @ 12:50 pm
  • Hey i was wonderin has anyone heard of people breaking into a Passat by slamming a tennis ball onto the lock and it will unlock the car, if you have heard of it please email me and tell me because it has been happening around my area and i don\'t kno if the tennis ball myth is true, alos i have been seein tennis balls around my driveway
    Rhys Williams - United States - Jul 19, 2005 @ 8:18 pm
  • Great instructions, it was the only site that I could find to help me figure out how to fix my problems, thanks a lot!
    Mark Williams USA - Jul 12, 2005 @ 10:53 am
  • An add on to my previous comment. Eventually found the problem with the door lock continuously opening the window - the door barrel itself was worn. Couldnt get a replacement ( as you would have to change keys ) so used the one from the LHS door. beware though you have to take it apart - they are not interchangeable. Bit of a job trying to get it back together though. Fixed it a few months ago, but traded up to a 02 passat 130bhp TDI. No problems so far........
    Colm Gillard - Jun 28, 2005 @ 1:08 pm
  • The instructions were great and finally fixed my problem on my 2001.5 Passat GLX Wagon. I\'d be happy to send you my failed unit in appreciation for your instructions.
    Patrick Nussbaumer, San Diego, CA, USA - Jun 24, 2005 @ 12:46 pm
  • Fabulous write up. Thanks very much!
    John Kelly - Jun 24, 2005 @ 6:06 am
  • Thankyou so much this was excellent. The writeup really did come in handy and I just printed it off for backup. I own a right-hand drive Passat so just flipped instructions. Clear Pics and concise instructions. Could not find these instructions in the Haynes Manual so well done.
    Vijay - Jun 21, 2005 @ 11:34 am
  • Fantastic instructions. Had it apart and the mechanism out in 20 minutes.
    Problem was with the microswitch, a broken push pin. Replace entire unit with new, $133 w/ tax. Reassembly is a bit more complicated. Make sure the window closure is perfect before putting on the panel.
    Paul - Jun 4, 2005 @ 8:37 pm
  • Very well done write up. I have a driver\'s door that will not stay locked- it locks and then unlocks, and even when moving the autolock tries to lock it but can\'t seem to pull it down. Is this still the fix? The door is fully closed and pushing on it doesn\'t help. I\'m stripping the door down and suspect one of the microswitches is bad. Anyone had luck finding one of the microswitches or are we stuck buying the whole module anyway, new or used? Any ideas on wholesale new dub parts? Most sites I find don\'t carry the lock stuff.
    John Tate - May 19, 2005 @ 9:53 am
  • Well I must say \'what a fantastic write-up.\'
    Just reading through this has given me the confidence to take my Passat to peices.
    If you see a Passat with the passenger door missing, I\'m still working on it.
    Keep up the good work.
    Eddie Spark - May 1, 2005 @ 3:02 pm
  • Interesting points but it does not solve my problem. My front door, driver side has been blocked. Cant open it
    either by key or manual.Have a central locking system which only works on one door.
    What to do?
    Arne Edman - Apr 27, 2005 @ 1:55 pm
  • Thanks, Great write up. I have problem with drivers side(rhs drive) electric window not moving. And I also have a problem with rear passenger side exterior door handle not opening that door(it opens from inside). Tried to strip both doors but got stuck at the steel plate. But will definitely try again this weekend.
    We also had a problem with the alarm(factory fitted), it just started alarming on its own, when we reset it it was ok but could go off any time again afterwards. We eventually got an alarm guy to partial disable it but he installed his own model so that we had an alarm on the car. Should it be possible to fix the original problem and take off the 2nd alarm? any good faultfinding tips that we could try?
    Tim Oliver(Ireland) - Apr 22, 2005 @ 3:02 am
  • Intermittent locking and unlocking of drivers door only with remote. Followed guide and found poor connection on pins into servo motor. Re tinned connections now all ok. Great write up.!!!
    Mike wooster - Apr 10, 2005 @ 6:41 am
  • Colm Gillard, I have same problem with the passenger side door not locking from inside switch. Mine can be cured by pressing switch twice in succession - there\'s a bit of a knack to it but it works for me!
    Mick-Bradford - Apr 4, 2005 @ 11:34 am
  • Thanks for the great writeup. It solved my problem with the door. Sympton: No electrical action when opening the door (no lights, no other door servo, just mechanical opening).

    Measured contacts on all swithches and connectors ok, but could see the solder crack, just as the picture shows. Resoldering did the trick.

    Would like to add that I managed to do the job without taking out the window or the metalplate (including connectors) by duct taping the window and plate from the top of the door. Drilled out the pop rivet holding the door mechanism, leaving the inner part of the mechanism-holder.

    My mechanism had one torx more inbetween the two snaps locks, possibly T9.

    I always use a digital camera when doing repairs for the first time. This time it made the assembly of the mechanism easy even though a couple of springs and levers had come loose.

    Thanks! Had a great day with the car.
    Jens Larsen, Sweden - Mar 28, 2005 @ 1:44 am
  • Excellent how-to, Thanks, Replaced the unit, took old apart, problem appeared to be the big switch in the latch. Dome light worked but \"headlights on\" and alarm did not see door open. Note that on my 2001 1/2 Passat GLX I also had to pry in and off wood trim on the inside of pull handle. Also replaced those plastic pins with nuts & bolts.
    Bill MacGillivray - Mar 25, 2005 @ 6:51 pm
  • Great resource!

    Note that the part numbers referenced above have been superceded by the following:

    3B1 837 015 J
    superseded by 3B1 837 015 AK
    3B1 837 016 R superseded by
    3B1 837 016 BH

    The new numbers are the \"quiet\" locks used in 2003+ VWs. Supposedly they are much less likely to fail than the earlier parts.
    Jeff Daigle (jddaigle on various VW forums) - Feb 16, 2005 @ 9:12 pm
  • Thanks, a great help, write up and pictures. Joints cracked in exactly the same position! On reassembly suggest filling space between PCB and rear case (in location of cracked joints) with silicone sealant (not too much) and add small around the locating lugs to stop the board from flexing. Also regrease lock mechanism on reassembly.
    Nocker (England) - Feb 10, 2005 @ 3:52 pm
  • Many thanks for your excellent information as I was lead to believe by an approved VW dealer that this could be an expensive issue to resolve.
    Niall D. - Jan 27, 2005 @ 5:42 pm
  • Unfortunately this didnt solve my problem. Every time i put the key in the lock to open the door the windows come down. The car will unlock but wont lock again. It can only be locked from the boot. Strange one. Probably need to do the same to the passenger side lock. This car has always had a problem with central locking. when you use the button from the inside all the doors lock except the passenger door. put the car on test on the vw conmputer and it told me i had a short in the right hand door. Pretty gutted - had to spend 50 to get the tools for the job ( and about 20 miles of driving ! ). Anyone ever seen this problem ?
    Colm Gillard (Ireland) - Jan 24, 2005 @ 11:14 am
  • thankyou for the info didnt need it cause the lock was bad but cause the cable to the door handle came out
    mike jobe - Jan 10, 2005 @ 5:19 am
  • Has anyone found the microswitch for sale?
    Thomas H - Jan 6, 2005 @ 6:12 am
  • Fantastic write-up, thanks. I would not have been able to take the entire door apart without these instructions. My problem was the external micro-switch (not cracked solder). I\'m going to try to hunt this switch down at:


    The dealer wants $158 for this assembly; The microswitch is probably only a few dollars.... wish me luck.
    Herman - Jan 3, 2005 @ 7:03 pm
  • Thanks very much for your web site as it is very useful.
    Jamie Raghuram - Dec 30, 2004 @ 10:56 am
  • Used your info to fix my driver\'s side door lock on my MK4 Golf today. Very helpful. Thanks! Note no parts were loose, but still had a broken solder joint in pin 8 of the external lock mircro switch. I resoldered all the joints on the pcb.

    Thank you again
    aRd - Dec 25, 2004 @ 5:17 pm
  • great info have had no similar problems
    but my passat has been so unreliabe its good to have this knowledge
    john collier - Dec 23, 2004 @ 1:29 pm
  • Thanks for the great writeup. If I didn\'t know what to look for I probably would have missed it. I had to use a magnifying glass to see that the solder joints were cracked on my 2000 Golf. My locks were working intermittently and I thought I would have to buy a new lock assy.
    B. Nagao - Nov 17, 2004 @ 7:32 pm
  • My problem is a little bit different. No possible to open the left rear passanger\'s door and window and than is problem to dissasemble the door.
    Daniel Beniak - Oct 31, 2004 @ 3:17 am
  • Excellent guide. I resoldered mine (the solder was also starting to crack) as a precaution when replacing the window regulator clips.
    Andy - Oct 28, 2004 @ 7:41 pm
  • Did mine, 2000 Passat. The joins were fine. It ended up being microswitch 4, the one on the mechanical side of the assembly. Unable to find a suitable microswitch, I bought a whole new assembly from VW. Not cheap, but it\'s fixed.
    MyV6VW on ClubB5 - Oct 16, 2004 @ 9:11 pm
  • That\'s greate tip... now I know why.
    Have one more question: My Jetta 01 have this ligths turn on alarm\'s problem, when I still ligths on and open the door everething is okey but as soon as keep openening door above 5\" alarm stop... could be same reason or something like that? Thx

    Jimmy Hdz - Oct 5, 2004 @ 6:45 pm
  • Great writeup,I have had problems with my locks for sometime.My #7 pin was cracked just like yours.Word of advice start with all the right tools including the 12 point m8 drive or you have to find a ride to the store or in my case many stores.
    Dan Johnson - Aug 26, 2004 @ 12:01 pm
  • Awesome job. I\'ve had problems with my lock modules for over 3 years now and wish I had found this sooner. I did the fix this afternoon and my joints on pins #3 and #7 were cracked. Here\'s something I posted at VwVortex.com about it - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1542461. Thanks again.
    Gary Thompson, aka VgRt6 - Aug 14, 2004 @ 9:14 pm
  • Used your info plus the Bentley manual to fix a rear door lock on my Passat today. Very helpful. Thanks! Note no parts were loose, but still had a broken solder joint in the same area as you (pin 5 of the connector).
    Mike Brown - Aug 14, 2004 @ 7:55 pm
  • Dude, Great write up. I think this may be the problem with my 98. It looks like it is. The driver dome light and also the drivers door convenience features don\'t work any more. I think this may be the problem. I checked the CCM. I am going to look at the wires run through the door loom. But, this could be it. Does this affect the dome light. It must.
    Stephen Thorne - Jul 23, 2004 @ 2:08 pm

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