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home|passat|maintenance & repair|CV Boot/Joint Replacement

CV Boot/Joint Replacement

Symptoms:

The outer constant velocity joint (CV joint) boots commonly fail on the B5 Passat and A4 (seems more often than most makes). The rubber boot is responsible for keeping the CV joint surrounded by grease - a tear in the boot will permit grease to fly out of the boot when the wheel is in motion, leaving tell-tale residue around the inner perimeter of the wheel (for the outer boot). Left like this, dirt will enter the joint, turning the bearings of the CV joint into grinders and destroying the CV joint. If you hear a clicking noise when in motion and while turning the car, the CV joints will need to be replaced. If a CV joint needs to be replaced, it's often less expensive to simply purchase a rebuilt driveshaft, as from Raxles. This also makes for easier replacement.

Updates:

June 25, 2005 - Thanks go out to a B5er who caught an omission of the inner CV joint gasket present only on '98-01 1.8t manual models, corrected. Updated boot kit part numbers for current models.

Part Information & Sources:

Note - always confirm part numbers by looking at the actual part mounted in the car! Mistakes will happen sometime, somewhere.

Part numbers:

Outer CV Boot Kit
'98-01
AEB, ATW, AUG engines 3B0 498 203 A
AHA, ATQ engines 441 498 203 A
'01.5-02
AWM, ATQ 2WD, ATQ 4WD (manual), BDP    441 498 203 A
ATQ 4WD (automatic) 4A0 498 203 C
'03-05
AWM, ATQ
pre VIN 3D-3E312500 or 3B-3-402000 		441 498 203 A
AWM 2WD, ATQ, BDP (manual)
post VIN 3B-3E312501 or 3B-3-402001		 3B0 498 203 D
AWM 4WD, BDP (automatic) 3B0 498 203 D
ATQ 4WD 4A0 498 203 C

Inner CV joint gasket
'98-01 AEB, ATW, AUG (manual) 8D0 407 309 A

OEM Pricing: ~$25-$35
Adirondack Auto Brokers: $16-$26

Tools Required:

  • 14mm socketed hex driver (17mm for V6 engines) finally updated!
  • 6mm allen key or socketed hex driver
  • 10mm 12-point star (triple square) driver
  • 10mm combination wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • CV boot clamp tool

Note - if you're in the US, AutoZone carries the large hex drivers, 12-point drivers, and boot clamp tool. A cheap boot clamp tool is available ($8) - used for this job as I wasn't planning on doing this more than a few times.

Driveaxle removal:

While the CV boot can be replaced with the driveaxle in the car, it's easy enough to remove the axle and work on the CV joints comfortably.

  1. With the car on the ground, start by loosening the wheel lug nuts.
  2. Loosen the driveaxle bolt with the 14mm hex driver (17mm for the V6). The driveaxle bolt, by necessity, is highly torqued - you'll need to use quite a bit of force to loosen the bolt. The force necessary for tightening highly stresses the bolt, and is the reason why a replacement bolt is provided in the boot kit.
  3. Raise the front of the vehicle (use jackstands, of course).
  4. Not necessary, but you can improve access to the driveaxle by removing the brake disc rotor and hanging the brake calipers. (illustration)
  5. Follow the driveaxle to the inner CV joint/transmission mating bolts. You'll need a 10mm 12-point star driver to remove the 6 bolts. If you're working on the passenger side of the vehicle, you'll need to rotate the shaft to access all of the bolts, or remove the protective overhanging plate (held in place by three 6mm allen bolts). On models with a gasket on the inner CV joint (see parts list), remove the gasket and clean the mating surfaces. (illustration)
  6. Haynes recommends hanging the driveshaft to keep the outer CV joint from overflexing - rope, string, etc.
  7. At the wheel hub, pull out the wheel speed sensor, located near the brake calipers - this step is often overlooked at auto shops. On these cars, pulling out the driveaxle with the wheel speed sensor in place will destroy the sensor and require replacement. (illustration)
  8. Now to removing the upper control arms from the steering knuckle. Start by removing the 10mm bolt and nut clamping the the upper control arms in the steering knuckle with the 10mm socket wrench and socket.
  9. The really fun part - pull the upper control arms from the steering knuckle. On my car, the control arms didn't want to leave their home in the knuckle. About a half hour of tender, loving care (read: small sledgehammer and brass point) later, the control arms popped out. I used a blunt tool to push the end of the control arm joints upwards through the steering knuckle. It's tempting to pry open the steering knuckle cavity at the visible slots - resist this. Deforming the fit between the control arms and steering knuckle is a good way to create a wobbly drive. Also, take care not to damage the balljoint boots - standard balljoint pry bars will likely destroy destroy the boots, necessitating control arm replacement (gripe - this is a needlessly expensive way of replacing balljoints! Terrible design choice to keep the balljoint a permanent part of the control arm).
  10. Completely remove the driveaxle bolt.
  11. With the upper control arms removed, the steering knuckle will freely move around - move the assembly away from the car and you'll be able to pull the driveaxle from the wheel hub. Gently tapping the driveaxle from the outside of the wheel hub can help with removal.
  12. The driveaxle has now been removed from the car. (illustration)
    Note - If you'll simply be replacing the driveaxle, skip down to installation.

CV boot replacement:

  1. With the driveaxle removed, clamp it in place with a vise, or other means of holding the driveaxle securely. Use rubber grips or cloths when clamping to keep from deforming the shaft. (illustration)
  2. Pry the two boot clamps open and cut off the old boot. This will expose the CV joint. (illustration)
  3. Time for some fun - the CV joint needs to be driven from the driveaxle shaft. One method is to use a hammer to drive off the joint - use a soft metal piece (brass works well) to direct the hammer's force at the innermost portion of the CV joint.
  4. Note the installation and orientation of the thrust washer, dished washer, and circlip - these will need to be reinstalled in the same order later. Take care with the thrust washer, as a replacement is not supplied in the boot kit.
  5. With the joint removed, clean off as much grease as possible, and mark the alignment of the inner race, bearing cage, and joint housing.
  6. The bearing cage can be moved around to expose each bearing for removal - push down on one edge of the cage to bring the opposing bearing out of its races.
  7. The inner race can then be removed from the bearing cage - twist the inner race in the cage and you'll be able to remove the race.
  8. Clean off all parts. (illustration)
  9. Examine for joint damage. Both outer joints of my B5 had some damage, due to dirt entry. One simple solution for two slightly damaged outer joints is to swap the joints - the damage is typically restricted to one edge of the joint where the individual bearings place the highest load. Swapping the joints will place the bearings to work against the undamaged sections of the joint surfaces. (illustration)
  10. Coat all surfaces with fresh CV joint grease.
  11. Reassemble the joint, and fill with as much grease as possible. Completely packing the joint is important.
  12. Use tape (duct, electrical, masking, etc) to cover the driveaxle splines.
  13. Slide the small boot clamp onto the drive axle, followed by the new boot.
  14. Remove the tape, and slide on the dished washer and thrust washer. Install the replacement circlip.
  15. Add the remainder of the grease to the empty boot.
  16. Tap the joint onto the driveshaft, until engaged by the circlip.
  17. Slide the boot onto the joint, using the boot clamp tool to secure the small and large clamps.

Driveaxle installation:

  1. If your inner joint had a gasket, ensure the mating surfaces are clean and apply the new gasket.
  2. Insert the driveaxle outer end into the steering knuckle, using the new bolt provided to tighten the joint just enough to move the joint into place.
  3. Reinstall the upper control arms, tightening the clamping nut to 30 ft-lbs / 40 Nm.
  4. Reattach the inner end of the driveaxle to the transmission housing, tightening the bolts to 59 ft-lbs / 80 Nm, working in a star pattern to tighten the joint equally.
  5. Reinstall the brake rotor and calipers if removed previously.
  6. Reinstall the wheel, tightening the lug nuts by hand.
  7. Lower the car.
  8. If the replacement driveaxle/hub bolt is a 14mm hex, tighten to 85 ft-lbs / 115 Nm with a torque wrench. Then switch to a breaker bar (ratchetless socket wrench with a cheater bar, etc) to tighten the bolt an additional 1/2 turn. Note that the final tightening is not something you want to subject to a ratcheting mechanism. A 17mm hex bolt should be tightened to 140 ft-lbs / 190 Nm + 1/2 turn.
  9. Tighten the lug nuts to 89 ft-lbs / 120 Nm, working in a star pattern.

Complete!

Additional resources:

Comments:

  • Hey guys, I have a 04 VW passat 1.8T sedan , CV boot was damaged and all the grease leaked out. I had two options 1- pulling ou the driveshatf and replacing the cv boot but u need a vise to do so or as it was mentioned on here you can do it while the shaft is in place 2 - replacing the driveshaft completely which i went with easy and clean , the job took me 45 mintues without touching the suspension. Brand new Driveshaft from car quest for $170+ taxe is a better deal than thoes rebuilt ones. EMPI offeres these shafts way cheaper than parts source or any parts retailer. any questions email me anytime.
    Tamer Demian Ontario, Canada - Oct 9, 2008 @ 4:36 pm
  • I have just replaced pasenger side axle on 2003 Passat 1.8T auto without disconnecting any suspension, without any problems. Thanks to the guys above, turn steering wheel to left, push inner CV toward front and push the outer end out of the wheel hub. Didn't have to raise suspension as some suggested. Removed ABS sensor by twisting and puling, no problems either. The biggest difficulty - to have enough wrench extensions to use torque wrench for inner CV bolts.
    Thanks to all for their comments
    Les, Chicago, IL - Sep 22, 2008 @ 12:08 pm
  • 01 new passat gls 1.8t good job guys. cake, with all the help. bolts were 17mm not 14 got the triple square at murrays.
    Jim crown point, IN. - Sep 20, 2008 @ 6:13 pm
  • Has anyone had experience with the half-shafts available from local parts stores (Autozone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly, etc.)? These are $59 as opposed to RAxles $200 (with shipping). Will I be unhappy with the cheap one?
    Paul US - Sep 5, 2008 @ 8:49 pm
  • Just did it on an 05 2.0 TDI. It uses the 17mm hex. One little tip is to put a couple of lug nuts on to hold the disk in place - then you can put a screw driver down the disk ventilator to stop the axle turning. Id recomend getting a couple of new plastic plugs for the self tapping screw that hold the sound proof dust cover in place. Also I think quite important for the newbies is to spell out that you must clean the brake disk with degreaser before putting the wheel back on - esp if the boots are severed there is grease flying about as was the case with mine. Could also use a tourque seting for the bolt that goes down into the Tie Rod End - I guessed 25 and also put some locking fluid on this bolt. Thank you so much this was a great help.
    James Riley - Aug 28, 2008 @ 12:04 pm
  • Printed this off and used to replace both CV boots on a right-hand drive (B5) 2001 Audi A4 2.5 TDi (V6) Quattro Sport Avant.

    O/S was a dream - plenty clearance with driveshaft disengaged from transmission. N/S was trickier. Had to jack-up suspension and turn the wheel hard-lock to the right. Invaluable reference guide - you've saved me a massive bill.
    Richard (Scotland) - Jun 30, 2008 @ 7:33 pm
  • This provided me great insight. Went for the brass ring and replaced the drive axles. Ran into a problem at the parts store. Gave me the wrong size for 2002 Passat GLS. Passenger side is shorter than drivers side. Did the replacement without removing anything. Used the technique of turning the wheel left when replacing the right side, turning the wheel right when replacing the left side. Save me about $800. Thanks
    Chas US - Jun 3, 2008 @ 9:58 pm
  • Just finished up replacing both axles on my 2000 V6 Manual. Whole job took about 5 hours, longer than expected.

    Drivers side was relatively easy. It would have went faster if I had been smart enough to put the lug bolts back into the hub (which keeps the hub locked to the brake disc) and use a screwdriver to hold it in place while loosening the inner joint bolts. On the V6, there is a heat shield on the driver side as well, but I found that I did not have to remove it. I was able to get the axle out without removing the Upper control arms on the driver side.

    Passenger side, not so easy. The bolts on the heat shield are very difficult to remove, especially if you only have a 6mm allen key. I highly recommend getting a socketed version and make sure you have some long extensions and possibly a swivel joint. I probably spent 30-45 minutes just trying to get the heat shield off.

    Also, I found that I could not get the passenger side axle out without removing the upper control arms. Luckily, being a Georgia car, the bolt came off with little effort and the arms came out of the knuckle with just a few light taps of a center punch. Getting the control arms back in place was actually much harder. Oil everything up, clean it out, oil it again, return the steering to center, use a jack to raise the lower suspension up, and the arms will go back in with out too much difficulty.

    The quality of the product from RAxles was very nice, loaner tools included, new axle bolts included. I'd recomend them if you are looking for full axle replacement.
    Bill, ATL, Georgia - May 30, 2008 @ 1:23 am
  • 99 Passat with 1.8T MT. Replaced both axles without dealing with the pinch bolt or removing the UCA ball joints. Lots of good advice here in the comments. On the driver's side, just turning the wheel back and forth was enough to make space to remove and replace the axle. On the passenger side, space is tighter. I had to remove the heat shield above the inner joint (use a 6 mm allen head socket, not an L-key). I also followed the advice from here about jacking the suspension at the LCA ball joint. I jacked it a lot, and that really helped, also wheels turned to the left. The ABS sensor is a big mystery to me. I had no success removing them, but no ABS light.
    Jeff (USA) - May 25, 2008 @ 9:44 pm
  • Your excellent write up gave me the confidence to replace the driver's side driveshaft on my 1.8T APU Passat. The 10mm star socket is known here as an "M10 splined socket" and of course I needed the 14mm Bi-Hex socket to undo the hub bolt - so learned my lesson - get all the parts first. I had to keep the car in gear to stop the driveshaft turning as I did / undid the driveshaft-to-transmisison bolts. Overall, as a newbie, this job took me 2 days - including half a day getting the sockets. Thanks again.
    Kevin - UK - May 2, 2008 @ 9:00 am
  • Just finished doing both sides axle replacement on my 2004 1.8T auto. Didn't have to do anything but take the wheels off!. Took me four hours with lunch break. For the driver's side just move the axle to the back of the car while turning the steering wheel to the right for enough clearance to pull the axle out. The passenger side was a little tighter, but turning the wheel to the left and moving the axle to the front of the car worked for me. Putting the new axles in is the reverse of pulling them out.

    Thanks for the great write up and tool list!

    Bill, USA - Apr 14, 2008 @ 2:58 pm
  • Question:I have 1998 passat,V6.One of the high pressure hoses leaking near steering rack area(power steering),can not get to it from neither side through wheel arches.Does the gear box has to come out?
    Thank you..
    Alex from Melbourne - Mar 30, 2008 @ 7:24 am
  • 2003 Passat 1.8T
    Changed both complete axles in about three hours. Drivers side no problem, no need for steps 7 and 8, left disc and rotor as well. Passenger side no problem as well. Able to remove axle without removing control arm, disc rotor etc. Jacking up the lower control arm allows the axle to slide out below the transmission. My axles had a 17mm hex bolt, not 14mm. A three foot piece of black pipe took care of the bolts and the 1/2 turn after torque.
    Ron, Concord MA - Mar 22, 2008 @ 11:06 pm
  • 2007 VW Passat MT FWD 1.8T
    Driver side driveshaft can be pulled out without dissassembly of control arm (steps 8 and 9): just move shaft towards rear or engine, and pull out of wheel hub. Real easy!!
    Fred, USA - Mar 11, 2008 @ 9:54 pm
  • As with everyone else the guide was appreciated. I have just done the drivers side front shaft of a 4Motion without splitting the suspension. Lifting the lower arm with a jack enabled me to get enough space to withdraw. I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned how hard it is to get the joint off the shaft end. Not knowing which of the two circlips which came with the kit was hidden inside the joint I was dubious about applying so much pressure. If it has been the hardened c clip I don't know what would have broken first but thankfully it was the wire type clip. The joint ends up cutting "teeth" into this wire as the joint is removed. It is horrible - but it comes off eventually. Unfortunately it means you cannot just replace the boot as you then have to strip and clean to get all the swarf out. I used the method suggested by another which was to put a piece of 12mm bar into the joint from outside then wind the hub bolt back in. It takes tremendous torque and a few smacks from a drift and hammer to get it going but it eventually moves. Not sure the joint is designed to take these "jacking" stresses, but I don't think that drifting would have done it by itself. Now I know what to expect the passenger side should be easier. Do yourself a favour and read the additional resources of Toms VW pages - CV Joint servicing before you start. Clean and mark everything before dissassembly. The tightening of the 17mm bolt to 140 ft/lbs is one thing, the extra half turn something else but with the right tools and some brute force and ignorance it will go. Good luck all!
    Dave Brannigan UK Passat B5.5 4Motion - Feb 18, 2008 @ 11:15 am
  • I would never have tried this without your write up! It saved me tons of cash. I was hesitant to replace the entire axle as my joints were not clicking and there was still a decent amount of grease inside the torn boots. I also found that it was very easy to pull the CV joints off with the axle on the car, clean them and repack. I bought a set of three brass punches from Northern Tool actually to drive the upper control arms out. The largest of the three is about 9 inches long and 3/8 in diameter. After working the outer joint out of the hub spline I found the punch fit perfectly into the drive axle bolt hole in the CV joint. By pulling the joint toward me and giving a good whack on the punch at the same time the CV joint popped right off the axle with little effort. I took it apart, cleaned it up and packed it with new grease. After getting it started on the axle spline I gave it a few good whacks with a rubber hammer and it went right back on very easily.
    texmln (Texas) - Feb 12, 2008 @ 11:29 pm
  • Thanks for this great write-up. Instructions and comments made replacing my front axles a breeze. I have a 2002 Passat manual FWD V6. I found the 12pt bits at Autozone (OEM brand, Internal Wrench Set, 12-point metric) and all of the socketed hex drivers except 6mm. I was able to remove the axles on both sides without disconnecting the upper control arms (step 8&9). A “wobble” socket, with extensions to get the wrench outside the car body, made it easier to get to the inner CV joint bolts without the need to remove the rotor or caliper (step 4), or rotate the axle or remove the inner CV shields (step 5). As others have said, it was very easy to remove the driver side axle by turning the steering full to the right. I had to rotate the inner joint while moving it toward the front of the car to get the “ears” past the shield. On the passenger side, with the steering turned full left, the inner CV joint cannot be moved forward (as on the driver side) due to the protrusion of the transmission. I used another jack to raise the lower control arm up as high as it would go and removed the axle by pushing the inner joint down below the transmission. When removing/replacing the axle, the inner CV had to be pulled onto the shaft to clear the transmission. The speed sensor is cylindrical shape and press fit into a spring-metal insert in the hole. Twisting it slightly back-and-forth while pulling it got it out. I forgot to remove one of them and it appears they can be left in if care is taken not to hit them with the axle shaft on removal. Based upon other write-ups, I reused the axle bolts. Again, thanks for a tremendous site and the informative feedback!
    Jim - Dayton,OH (USA) - Jan 30, 2008 @ 12:00 pm
  • This web-site is a life saver. I just changed both CV joint assemblies, and what I thought was going to be an all day job, turned out to be a breeze. Took less than an hour to do both sides. Also thanks for the heads up on the 12 point star wrenches (Autozone had a 4 pack for under $15). In fact, it took longer to replace the serpentine belts than it did to do the CV Joint assemblies. You guys ROCK!
    Rob Bruns - Jan 12, 2008 @ 9:52 pm
  • Thanks for the write-up as you inspired me to do this myself. I have a 2001.5 1.8t and I did not have to remove the upper control arms on either side. All you have to do for when you are doing the drivers side is turn the wheel to the extreme right and the alxle will pull right out and on the passengers side turn the wheel to the left. Marty at Raxles was super and supplied all the specialty tools for the job.
    Tim Atlanta GA - Dec 14, 2007 @ 3:20 pm
  • Just did this for my '02 sedan 1.8T manual, and found I didn't have to remove the upper control arms from the steering nuckle on either side and the job was a breeze ( a very messy, greasy breeze). I did the job with a helper who guided the axle out of the hub while I was under the car manuevering the inside of the axle around to get the angle right. We got the clearance we needed to get the passenger side axle in and out by turning the wheels to the left. I was not able to find the 10mm 12-point triple star at my AutoZone. I had to go to a more specialty parts shop, but I got a 4-piece set (6/8/10/12mm) for under $20.
    Dave - Dec 9, 2007 @ 8:25 pm
  • Thank you so much for the advice posted here. I used every bit of it and was thrilled to see this info posted for free and written so well. I am slightly annoyed with all of the work that my wife's Passat has taken over the life of the car. I had the boots replaced a few months ago at the dealership that I bought the car from and sure enough, the joints went bad within the last month. The dealership wanted to charge close to $1000 to replace the outer cv joints. I called NAPA and they had the entire shaft assembly, inner and outer cv joints and the 17 mm socket head screw for $100 per side. I purchased them and then reasearched the work on the internet so that I could be slightly more prepared than other jobs in the past. Who knew that I needed another rollaround full of vw specific tools to try and save so far allmost what the car is worth in repair bills. I like the car, but I have thousands in tools and every repair that needs to be done requires a half day of driving around looking for tools that no one has heard of. This info had me at least prepared for the tools ahead of time. However, if you really want to avoid a possible trip in the middle of this job, find the 12 point driver from a more reputable source than autozone. The closest store to me in upstate NY is 30 min away and they were the only store in the area to have the 12 point driver. I brought the set home and it removed four bolts and totally fell apart in the fifth. this prompted the driving around for half the day only to wind up with the same set again from autozone. I very carefully removed the rest of them and had the job complete in only 3 hours start to cleanup. Remeber that when the cheaper tool gets you only part way through the job, it realy wasn't that cheap. Thanks to the author for all the help that I wish I had seen before, I would have done the joint replacement before, and I would have saved the $240 per side for that job. That was more than what I spent doing this myself. I'll keep my eye out more often
    Rich - NY - US - Nov 25, 2007 @ 10:13 pm
  • '02 Passat wgn 1.8t. Drive side easy. Pssgr side had to abort. couldn't get upper control arm bolt out, marred threads badly enough attempting to sledge it out that I had to cut ~3mm off to rethread nut back on. Overnight liquid wrench didn't help. Seems to be nasty rust seizure, or I am missing something? Maybe six cyl cars don't need to remove susp, but I'm convinced we 1.8t owners are stuck on the pssgr side.
    Chris - Nov 20, 2007 @ 10:03 am
  • Thanks for the great instructions. I just finished replacing the boots on both sides of my 02 1.8t with automatic transmission. I found the 17mm allen wrench in a set at Harbor Freight for $12, and a 25 inch breaker bar that worked great for $10. I bought the triple square from Autozone for $12 and they lent me the boot clamp tool for free. I ordered the GKN boot kit from ECS tuning and they shipped it very fast. Beware, though that the GKN kit uses a 27mm axle bolt which requires a different socket than the 17mm allen. I bought a 27mm socket at PepBoys for $8. I did the passenger side first and it took 5 hours (I learned a lot and cleaned up very thoroughly.) Then the driver's side only took an hour. Overall I spent $108 on parts and tools the indy shops wanted over $375 for the same work. Cleaning and repacking the joint was not too bad, just messy.

    Oh, and I did *not* have to remove any suspension bolts on th 02 1.8t with auto. There was enough clearance to remove the axles with just turning the wheels.
    Tom, USA - Nov 18, 2007 @ 8:10 pm
  • Greatly appreciated this write up-even being a diesel fitter its nice to be able to go into a job like this with some confidence and better still the right tools, Havent done this job on my V6 A4 just yet but the 2 new cv joints are sitting in the garage ready to be tackled some night this week, $55 each on ebay Australia.
    Diy all the way to hell with dealer charges. Thumbs up!
    Rory- Ireland/Brisbane - Nov 11, 2007 @ 7:02 am
  • Lifesaver at least!! Thanks for posting all the info. i like the Passat. I do not like allllllllll the maintanance. When I tackle new area, I will return the favor. thanks again.

    Scott
    Scott Texas - Nov 4, 2007 @ 7:51 pm
  • Just did this on my 1999 Passat GLX V6 30V this weekend. Directions were spot on! Did not need to do step 4 though. For step 5, did not also have to remove the protective plate or heat shield and there was no gasket. For step 7, I had no speed sensor to remove. You'll need 16mm tools though to get the pinch bolt from the steering knuckle. Step 29, I had no gasket to replace.
    Got both my axles from Raxles.com, they loaned all the tools needed. The whole procedure took less than two hours all together, partly because I just got done replacing all front end suspension parts a couple months before, so bolts were nice and easy to get loose still, not all rusted in as the first time I had to take them apart, now THAT was a chore!
    I definitely would recommend to anyone to do this themselves and save tons of money.
    John USA - Oct 14, 2007 @ 10:01 pm
  • You are a life saver!!! If not for all of the helpful hints and awesome directions on this page, I'd be walking instead of driving my 2003 Passat. Thanks a million! Vickie
    VICKIE FROM THE U.S.A. - Oct 10, 2007 @ 1:19 am
  • Thanks for the writeup! I've got a 2001 (old body style) V6 2.8L manual. I've done both sides. I used Raxles and everything fit great.
    I didn't remove the control arms for either. As someone mentioned earlier, the secret to getting the shaft free on the passenger side is to jack up the suspension to where it sits normally. Turn the wheel all the way to the left. Hold the outer joint (using disposible gloves!), push in and disengage the shaft from the hub. Then, to get it out of the knuckle, bend the outer joint so it points toward the front of the car, then guide it out the top.
    Matt - Oct 6, 2007 @ 1:04 pm
  • On a 2001.5 1.8T Passat it is not necessary to disconnect any of the suspension pieces on the driver's side - there's plenty of room to get the axle out. Also - Murray's Discount AutoParts stores carry brand new axles for about $95 with no core charge - and they come complete with the hub bolt. Destroyed my ABS sensor in the process - it just would not come out however hard I tried. New ones are available on Ebay for $55+shipping - just search for "8D0 927 803D"
    Andre, USA - Oct 1, 2007 @ 9:21 am
  • Just finished with replacing the driver's side axle on my '98 1.8T passat. Overall an easy job, considering that so far any maintenance has been a pain in the neck (who has ever seen a car in which the entire front bumper/radiator assembly has to be moved forward to replace a simple V belt?) Hardest (i.e. messiest) part was packing the grease on the engine side boot. Wish the car had the tripod style CV joint. Had no need to remove CA. Plenty of room just by steering to the left. Next, the boot on the passenger side...
    Thanks again for the nice write up.

    Alberto Scotti, USA - Sep 19, 2007 @ 5:13 pm
  • people under medical care may be a virtue (as in patients), not sure...patience is the one I ment ;))
    Mike (sp addendum) - Sep 14, 2007 @ 5:18 pm
  • Just finished replacing 2000 GLX V6 AT drivers side axel purchased from
    GermanAutoParts including 10mm triple-square and 17mm allen. The new axel was $102 plus $17 shipping to west coast. No core to send back like Raxels. Remove and hang brake caliper, and remove inner heat shield = lots more room. Without removing the heatshield I don't think there would have been enough room. No need to remove upper CA. Pulling back and up on outer joint, and manuvering the inboard CV joint towards the front, gives you adequate room. Axel nut came off with 18 inch 1/2 breaker bar. An Audi tech friend said Axel nut can be reused, just don't over tighten. A little dicey torqueing inner CV joint with 6 inch long triple-square adapter connected to a 12 inch extension. Those bolts are critical, so torque them correctly in star pattern. Patients is a virtue. If over 50, prepare for three days of soreness. Dealer wanted $975. Thanks ClubB5 and Taligentx
    Mike, USA - Sep 13, 2007 @ 6:47 pm
  • This information was great along with the knowledge contributed by others. I have a 2002 V6 30V 5sp manual with 66,500 miles on it and it was just in for the P9 recall. I was informed the outer passenger boot was torn. I searched for info on the web and found this site. It was perfect. It took me longer to find the right tools. I must have stopped at 15 places in total, but the 17mm hex drive was finally found at Grainger 2 miles from home! I removed the axle bolt with a 1/2" breaker bar along with a 4 foot steel pipe extender. It only took a 1/4 turn to loosen. The innner races were clean - no pitting and the grease was not contaminated. I thought I caught it right away as there was lonly a ittle grease in the wheel well. On assembly, I torqued the axle bolt to 140ft-lbs and then turned a quarter turn. I noticed that the axle hub has a series of small rectangles going around the outer surface aboput 3/8" wide. There was grease in some of mine which I took the time to clean well. I did this because of the comments about the speed sensor and the ABS light coming on for a few miles. I know the speed sensor reads these marks. I had no ABS warnings at all. I would not have been successfuly or would not have tried this repair if it were not for this web site and the excellent feedback.
    Ed USA - Sep 9, 2007 @ 1:11 pm
  • Let me add my name to the chorus of people who greatly appreciated this write-up. I just finished replacing the driver's side driveaxle on my '98 Passat. By far the hardest part was getting the drive-bolt out - I broke a couple of ratchets, then proceeded to completely strip the drivebolt when I upgraded to a two-foot prybar. I spent the next 3 hours drilling out the bolt, but once I got that out, everything went (mostly) smoothly. I couldn't get the driveaxle out of the car without taking about the steering knuckle, but it wasn't that to disassemble: a few taps of the hammer on the arm joints and they popped right out! Now getting them back together, *that* was another story.

    Thanks again!
    Herb - Aug 28, 2007 @ 1:29 am
  • Found off-side boot split on my 2000 A4 when getting new tyres before MOT. Grease spread all around inside of wheel. Advised garage repair would be needed before MOT test alteady booked. No idea how long boot split other than since service in February so was prepared to joint needing replacement. Fortunately joint OK so just boot kit (£20+VAT) and fitting (£40+VAT). However when I collected car told ABS (and hence traction control) light now on, but was off after test drive but before they washed to remove grease. Hence said probably water in connector and would clear but I had my doubts. I know really should have gone back for garage to rectify but due to time & hassle decided to have a look. Speed sensor in position. Pulled out and housing all dry and clean. End look well sealed and not sure how cable comes off - or is it integral? so left well alone. However noticed connector on cable to brake caliper loose. Part to caliper is held in a bracket to rear of bearing / CV assembly. The housing on the free part was not latching. I guess mechanic had trouble seperating, or could have been some previous time as plastic distored. I guess being caked in CV grease would not help either!! Initially I couldn't persuade connetor to lock. Then carefully squared up edges on both parts with scapel. Connector locked and I pushed latch fully down. Hopefully will now stay in place. If not new connector needed. Initially ABS light still on but went off after driving perhaps 20 metres. So if you have ABS light on check caliper connector before condeming speed sensor or anything else expensive!!
    David (UK) - Aug 12, 2007 @ 11:45 am
  • for 2002 passat 1.8T Manual have to use 17mm hex to unbolt CV bolts, I still in progress of replacing boots because of frozen upper control arms (will be using a sledgehummer with some tool) and some parts are still not deliveried. Looks like a common problem for Passat (I have 2) at about 70-90K miles CV boots dies and have to be replaced. Both my passat has same troubles. AutoZone has set of tools to unbolt inner CVJ as well as set of hex drives to unbolt CVJ bolts, much chiper then at GermanAutoParts. Thanks to author for a great story. Even with Bently manual handy it still very helpful.
    Igor - Aug 11, 2007 @ 5:08 pm
  • 2002 Passat 1.8T took just around an hour. Didn't have remove any thing except the shroud around the inboard end of the shaft on the passenger side. Turn the steering left all the way then back about half a turn the push the inboard end up and fwd and pull the shaft right out of the hub. Seemed to simple. The dealer wanted $350 for this job. Parts and tools came to about $100. Thanks for the info, everything went great! (easy).
    Brent USA! - Aug 8, 2007 @ 7:57 pm
  • This writeup was very helpful in doing the driver's side on my 2000 V6. In case anyone needs it, the PN for the axle/transmission bolts is +N 904 411 02. The garage who did an earlier CV boot had mangled these bolts pretty well...

    mungo socal - Aug 6, 2007 @ 10:15 pm
  • I am trying to replace my outer CV boots for my Passat V630V AT 2001. I have had the axle removed successfully. But so far I have no luck in driving the inner race off the axle. There is a circlip inside the CV joint blocking the inner race from coming out. You can't even see the circlip but the boot kit has it. The inner race is actually loose on the axle. But it is blocked by the circlip. How hard do you have to drive it with a punch and a hammer? I have tried the axle bolt. But it won't come out still. Any suggestions?
    David, California, USA - Aug 4, 2007 @ 7:57 pm
  • ello
    My name is john and am from john and sons and am interested in purchasing the 14mm VW Style Lug Bolt w from your company to be shipped to west Africa and i will really appreciate if you send me an email with the price and it availability.and also your terms of payment.thank you and waiting to hear from you soon
    regards
    John





    johl - Jul 28, 2007 @ 6:23 pm (website)
  • hi i am having trouble with getting cv joint off car on drivers side i have vw passat on v plate its 1.9 tdi i have tried tapping it and with no avail can anyone help

    marty - Jul 14, 2007 @ 12:45 pm
  • I don't see how anyone can get the axle out without removing some suspension components. I've tried turning the wheel left, right, and all varying degrees inbetween. The axle simply doesn't compress enough, and there is no where to put the differential side, such that you can get it out of the car. Maybe this was possible on the pre 2001.5 model, but if you have a 2001.5 and later V6, forget it. Just remove the upper control arms, unless you like to waste a lot of time trying the impossible.
    Sandman333, USA - Jun 5, 2007 @ 12:30 pm
  • Never mind, I got it after letting it sit a day. Strange combination of forcing inner joint forward and outer joint up and to the rear did the trick, touching the suspension. Clicking noise is gone in turns, but now I feel vibrations through the steering wheel under hard acceleration. Could the replacement be bad? Or did I damage something? Any ideas?
    Eric, Michigan, USA - May 23, 2007 @ 11:50 pm
  • Replacing the drivers side axle on my 01 GLX V6 Manual (B5) and I can't get the damn axle out. I've managed to get the inner joint loose, and after much forcing, turning the wheels full right, got the outer joint free of the splines, but it won't go the extra 1 inch or so inboard to free itself of the wheel hub.

    I have not been able to unbolt the upper control arms--close to breaking the bolt already. People say that is not necessary any way. I do not know how it is possible without unfastening the arms.

    Some say to remove the wheel speed sensor so the axle won't damage it coming out, but I can't get it to budge--also afraid of breaking it if I force it too much more.

    Any help?

    Also, everywhere I look online tries to sell me 16mm axle bolts for my model. The original is a 17mm. Any idea where I can get a replacement (the new axle I bought did not come with axle bolts)?
    Eric, Kalamazoo, MI (USA) - May 22, 2007 @ 12:04 pm
  • This was a very helpful page. I changed the drivers side without undoing any steering links. I'll be back when I do the timing belt
    Mark USA - May 15, 2007 @ 10:44 pm

  • Mark USA - May 15, 2007 @ 10:37 pm
  • Great stuff. I replaced drivers side fron axle on a 2001 Passat v6 5speed 2wd. It took about 1.5 hours. I did not undo the control arms or calipers. I turned the wheel al the way to the right and was able to remove the axle fairly easy. This is much less complicated than the way Haynes would have you do it.
    David-USA - May 9, 2007 @ 11:32 am
  • I have just bought a CV boot kit from the dealer for £28.25, it's for a 2000 plate Passat TDi with an ATJ engine, and the kit is part number 441 498 203 A. The kit came with the boot, a replacement retaining bolt, clips, grease and thrust washer.

    It didn't come with a gasket for the inner joint and the system didn't seem to think that I needed one, so let's hope that I don't!
    Andy (UK) - Apr 30, 2007 @ 7:49 am
  • 17mm Hex works well when mated to very sturdy 4 foot extender bar! Driver-side needed extreme effort. Thanks for all your tips. Still very relevant in 2007.
    Greg (Phoenix, Arizona, USA) - Apr 25, 2007 @ 5:11 pm
  • Great info, I found it looking for torque specs. I also was having a hard time finding a 17mm so I borrowed one from a friend and later found one at the local Schucks, it's a socket for BMW transmission plugs. Not sure it's hard enough to take 140ft-lbs or not but an FYI for anyone who reads it.
    I got the new, not rebuilt, drivers side shaft for $81 at Napa and they even had it in stock!
    Steve M. Everett WA USA - Apr 8, 2007 @ 10:53 am (website)
  • I replaced both axles on my 2000 Passat GLS wagon in a few hours. The whole axle was cheaper than the replacement CV, so why go through the hassle of taking apart the CV joint? I got Cardone replacements through PartsPlus for $64 each (I think they're rebuilts, but they looked new). I removed the heatshields and maneuvered both axles out without undoing any steering links. I really thought it was quite easy technically. It was no fun sitting on the floor for a few hours however! I'm sore today!

    It helps to have lots of ratchet wrench extensions, adapters, etc. to help you get to the various bolts. Get a couple pairs of the blue nitrile rubber gloves. They're comfortable and save your hands not only from the grease but also minor scrapes and such. If you've tried latex gloves and hate them, try nitrile! Way better.

    Thanks a lot for this tutorial! It saved me almost $500 over the quote I had.
    Tim, Whitney Pt, NY - Mar 26, 2007 @ 10:38 am
  • Replaced CV boots on both sides of my 2001 Passat GLS-V6 (manual) last weekend. Did the whole job in a parking lot (I don't have a garage). I did not undo any of the suspension, and the driver side axle came out easily, but the one on the passenger side was very difficult to get out. Removing the heat shields was not necessary. My 12-point driver was about 6 inches long, and it was not possible to get the wrench handle in there because the lower control arem was in the way. I had to buy an extra 1/2 inch extension. The hardest part was pushing the CV joins off the axle. Do not try this unless you have access to a large vice and a sledge hammer. Next time I will definitley buy whole rebuilt axles. Playing with the CV joints is fun but not really worth the aggravation. I did pull out the wheel speed sensors as suggested, but still ABS warning light came on during the test drive. It went away after a few miles.
    Pavel - USA - Mar 19, 2007 @ 6:14 pm
  • To use the axle hub bolt to remove the joint, insert a piece of bar stock or soft threaded stock into the bore of the axle and then use the axle bolt to remove the joint. Tighten down and if it doesn't pop loose, help it off with a little tap, as shown above. On my 2003 1.8t with auto, both axles came out and went back in easily without removing control arms. EMPI replacement axles are available at German Auto Parts for $104.00
    Kip, USA - Mar 5, 2007 @ 7:51 pm
  • Hey, I did the right side today without removing any suspension parts and it only took 1.25 hours to r&r with boot replacement !! This write up has been a great help. I didn't use the hub bolt to separate the cv joint this time and am glad I didn't as the right axle is center drill too and would have ruined the bolt like the left side. Everything went really smooth. Thanks again...on to the rear brakes and then the trans fluid change !
    Mitch, Minnesota, USA - Jan 10, 2007 @ 4:07 pm
  • I followed these instructions today to do the left side of my 2001.5 V6 ...DO NOT...I REPEAT...DO NOT USE THE HUB BOLT TO PUSH OFF THE OUTER HUB FROM THE JOINT !!!!! The shaft on mine is center drilled and only accomplished destroying the first 4 threads on the bolt....then I couldn't get it back out !!!! Only by working it back and forth numerous times with an impact gun was I able to get it out. I then had to grind off 1/2 inch of the threads on a bench grider and use a thread file to reshape the rest of the threads that were damaged by the, now, screwed up threads in the hub. Fortunately, the hub is harder than the bolt and is still OK. I did reuse the bolt for now without any problem, but I will be getting a new one to put in soon.
    On a more positive note, this site and particular thread gave me the courage to take this on. I had initially figured it would need to be a dealer job....not so. The advice on buying the needed tools at Auto Zone proved right on the money, as no were else I called or went had them. I will be replacing the outer cv boot on the right side tomorrow, BUT I WON'T BE SCREWING UP THE HUB BOLT THIS TIME !!!!
    Thanks for the site, now if someone can tell me how to remove the plastic pieces over the drivers (left) side seat belt to lube or replace it, I will appreciate that as well. Mitch
    Mitch, Minnesota, USA - Jan 9, 2007 @ 7:08 pm
  • Instead of driving the outer joint of with a drift and hammer, I just pressed off the joint with the old bolt. the bolt is long enough to reach the end of the shaft and pop the joint from the circlip. This worked on my 98 AEB/manual and 2000 ATW manual.
    Prevents damage to the plastic thrust washer from missed hammer blows
    Stan Gray FL US - Jan 6, 2007 @ 6:57 am
  • Brilliant most helpful article that I found just in time!! I've now left the seized pinch bolt for another day and took the left hand (passenger side in the UK) shaft out in double quick time to replace the outer cv boot. I wasn't looking forward to doing this, but these tips have made a hassle job a lot easier. Thanks all.

    Only thing is that my local dealer didn't have the shaft circlip, so I've re-used the old one - is this a big no-no or just a 'nice to do'? I can't quite see what it really does - it's not man enough to hold the shaft in place, so why?

    Ian, UK - Jan 2, 2007 @ 11:24 am (website)
  • THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

    By following the hints / additions to the steps listed above, I was able to replace both outer boots in around 4 hours without taking apart any suspension components or breaking anything (which I often do figuring things out). I probably spent more time trying to find the tools (10mm 12 pt and 17mm allen) then it actually took to r&r the shafts.

    Anyway, this was an excellent article - THANK YOU.


    G. Allen Pearson
    G. Allen Pearson - Dec 17, 2006 @ 1:54 pm
  • 02 1.8t required 17mm socketed hex driver, not 14 mm.

    I forgot to undo the ABS sensor, but no damage done fortunately.
    John - Nov 14, 2006 @ 1:56 pm
  • For those with Passat V6 AT, (mine is a 2001.5) when doing the passenger side, you HAVE to undo some of the suspension. Top or bottom, makes no difference. Removal was simple in my case because the boot was completely torn and the joint moved freely. There is NO WAY to maneuver a new axle into place. I spent 3 hours trying every which way to do it. Not possible. Driver's side is a breeze though - 1/2 to 1 hour job at most. ***When tightening the nut onto the bolt on the balljoint housing, be very careful because it is very easy to overtighten and snap the bolt.***
    Rick - Nov 10, 2006 @ 2:19 pm
  • How does the ABs sensor come off ? The car is a 95 RHD 1.8. Previous threads suggest a twist and pull. How far do you twist ? How hard do you pull ? I've tried 90 degrees ? Does it need to be prised ? I've tried twisting, pulling and prising and now the ABS light is constantly on AND the sensor is still attached and I've yet to start the job !!!
    Excellent site by the the way.
    Graham UK - Oct 14, 2006 @ 10:50 am
  • An easier alternative to using a hammer to remove the CV joint from the shaft is to use the 17mm internal hex bolt.

    Once CV has been removed from the wheel-bearing assembly, simply hold the CV joint so it is parallel with the shaft and screw the bolt back into the CV. The end of the bolt will contact the shaft end, and gently pop off the CV assembly. This also makes it very easy to replace the boot without removing the shaft from the car, if desired.

    Best Regards,

    Chris
    Chris Herman (pass-variant) - Oct 11, 2006 @ 4:46 pm (website)
  • Great Site! I am gonna do my timing belt soon!
    Neils Shortcut worked great for me on drivers side axle. I did not even have to tap it. It slid right out. While I was in there I changed the rotors and put in new brake pads as well (on both sides of cours) as well as changing the brake fluid.
    The brake caliper bolt for getting to the rotor for this car (B5) is a 7mm hex wrench. Not a standard size in small metric hex sets. I got a set of two from Sears for $0.97 cents and saved buying a large set of metric hex wrenches and an extra trip to the parts store. Also torqued the axle bolt 85 ft lbs and was only able to turn it a little more than 1/4 turn. It wouldnt move any more!
    Cheers!

    Elmar - Sep 21, 2006 @ 10:15 am (website)
  • Great write up! Took me 30 minutes and the car runs like new!
    Jeff (Atlanta, GA) - Aug 28, 2006 @ 2:13 pm
  • Great advice! Not to beat a dead horse, but as previously mentioned you do NOT have to disconnect control arms or even remove caliper! For drivers side turn steering wheel to right, pull shaft up and to the rear. For passenger side, remove heat shield (3 6mm hex bolts), turn steering to left, and pull up and to the front. A few words of caution: 1) take note of the author's and readers' comments regarding tools. Before you start make sure you have everything you need: for '02 passat, 14mm hex wrench for hub bolt (if you can find a socket great, just use breaker bar and a length of pipe to break if free, and a torque wrench will ensure proper torque when installing. If all you can get is an "elbow" wrench, just slip long piece of pipe over it. If using elbow wrench to install hub bolt make sure you are putting proper torque on bolt-I used 12 inch pipe, I weigh about 190 lbs., just stood on pipe, voila 190 ft. lbs. of torque! 2) 6mm 12 point bit for flange bolts (also known technically as "serrated bit") DO NOT try to use 6 point torx bit, I tried and nearly stripped the teeth in the head of the bolt. All was not lost however, after getting the correct 12 point bit I simply lined it up in the stripped head and tapped it with a hammer, bit was seated firmly and bolt head was good as new. 3) 6mm hex bit for heat shield, I only had an elbow wrench, and it was a real pain to get leverage using that little thing. AGAIN-just make sure you have the proper tools BEFORE you begin, save yourself a lot of headaches, one final note to ensure you have the proper size hex bolt or hex bit for the hub bolt, just match it up to the new one before you leave the parts store!
    Dennis USA - Aug 15, 2006 @ 6:59 pm
  • Great source for info, thanks. Did the drivers side of the wife's A4 2 months ago and was a pain in the ass. Disconnected everything, etc.., now, did the passenger side last weekend and found if you disconnect the lower end of the shock to move it, you can disconnect the inner end six bolts and pull the shaft forward enough to get it out past the turbo and related components, took 2.5 hours, start to finish!
    Kevin Carlson...USA - Jul 24, 2006 @ 2:24 pm
  • Thanks for the tips. I just finished replacing both axles on my 2000 passat v6 automatic. I did not have to remove the upper control arms on either side of the car. Turning the steering wheel is the trick to getting them out and the new ones back in. Also the shields need to be removed. I highly recomend raxles.com for fast shipping and pre-paid postage on cores. Also new bolts came with the axles.
    Justin - United States - Jul 15, 2006 @ 1:39 am
  • Great resource! Very well organized and concise.
    * I want to especially thank Steve (Mar 30, 2006, comment) for his tips to avoid pulling suspension apart. Saved tons of time on my 1999 A4 Avant 1.8 MT.
    ** I broke driver side ABS sensor. Unfortunately, I think the advice should be to leave it be. The sleeve was rusted and sensor body being plastic broke trying to free it. The ring on CV is not stepped, so as long as you pull the joint straight out, it should not even contact the ABS sensor. $100+aggravation, not worth it!!!
    Greg, USA - Jul 10, 2006 @ 10:19 am
  • How the heck do I pull out the wheel speed sensor? I've tried gently levering with a screwdriver but I'm afraid of breaking it.

    Any hints?

    Looks like a very useful webpage ..... now all I have to do is get those speed sensors out and find a shop that sells the 17mm and 10mm drivers - Canadian Tire don't stock them.

    Thanks, Duncan
    Duncan, Canada - Jul 5, 2006 @ 3:57 pm
  • Just an update to my post below for Audi A4 (B5) owners:
    On the drivers side i did have to undo the upper control arms to get the driveshaft out :( Even with the heat shield removed there wasn't enough room to maneuver it out otherwise. Releasing the control arms turned out to be a matter of just tapping the ball-joints 'stubs' from below, once the pinch-bolt was removed :) Aligning and re-inserting them into the steering knuckle proved a small bit trickier, but again light tapping (with a small sledge!) was enough to send them home!
    Tom (Galway, Ireland) - Jun 6, 2006 @ 10:07 am
  • Brilliant instructions! Thank you for your attention to detail. For Audi A4 owners, I was able to remove the drive shaft on the passenger-side (of my 1997 1.6L A4), using the excelent instructions above, skipping steps 8 & 9, as has been suggested. Also, there was no need to jack up the suspension or remove the brake caliper, in my case. With both front wheels off the ground, have the steering wheel turned full-lock to the left, remove the inner joint from the transmission, to the right and upward. Then have the steering turned full-lock to the right, it is now possible to remove the driveshaft from the wheel hub.
    A couple of other notes;
    - Being a novice, i found loosening the driveaxle bolt the most difficult part! I used a home grown 4 ft lever in the end!
    - On the A4, there was a gasket on the inner joint, even though the VW-Audi parts-store guy insisted otherwise beforehand!

    I have yet to do the drivers side, will post again if it is any different. Thanks again, top notch.
    Tom (Galway, Ireland) - May 29, 2006 @ 10:31 am
  • Very helpful website. I managed to remove the CV hub from the driveshaft by leaving the inboard end attached. I inserted a piece of 12mm reinforcing bar with a small central hole drilled, flush with the end of the splined hub inside the hub bolt hole. I assembled a 3 legged puller and carefully wound in the bolt with a socket bar until BANG! it was free. This worked well for me on my 02 TDI Passat.
    Chris from Hampshire, UK - May 7, 2006 @ 3:19 pm
  • Great write-up - gave me the confidence to do it myself. For my 2000 GLS V6 MT FWD, I was able to remove axles from both sides w/o separating the upper control arms from the steering knuckles. On driver's side, jack up the car and remove the wheel. Remove the shield above the axle that's bolted to the trans case. Turn the steering all the way to the right. The axle can now be maneuvered out. Same thing on passenger side with steering turned all the way left, except on this side you must raise the suspension up to its normal position using a jack at the lower ball joint. I don't know if this works on other engine/trans combos.
    Steve, Kansas City MO (USA) - Mar 30, 2006 @ 1:28 pm
  • Thanks for taking the time to do the writeup. It really helps, those of us that do it for the first time. Once I got the specialty tools it really was a breeze. Only problem I ran into was that the ABS warning was on after the job, and I broke the speed sensor trying to get it out. $130 for a replacement from German Auto Parts. The only question is how far in does the new one go??
    BobZ (Boston) - Mar 10, 2006 @ 1:05 pm
  • Great instructions!! I used this and as well as my Haynes book. Unfortunately it took much longer than expected because finding a 17mm socketed hex driver was very difficult. I finished one this weekend and will start the other the next weekend.
    Thanks for taking the time to detail your step by step instructions, they were perfect!!
    Ian (Georgia, U.S.) - Jan 29, 2006 @ 5:19 pm
  • Great writeup.
    I performed this procedure on 1999 V6.
    Answers to some questions;
    Removing the sensor on the steering knuckle, twist and pull, just a friction fit.
    Don't pull on the wire.
    Removing the frozen upper control arm cap screw. I drilled it out. Replacement $4.00.
    Removing the CirClip. I didn't. I drove the CV Joint off the axle.
    Greg - Oct 11, 2005 @ 1:20 pm
  • Caught torn boot early, ordered part and tool from GermanAutoParts.com. Steps 8,9 not necessary on V6. Needed 17 mm wrench to remove caliper bolts for easier access. Found a good brass drift set at Sears (Mayhew #61360 14.99) and a 3LB Hand Drilling hammer, the joint flew off on the second shot. Using a 5 and 10 inch ext with a universal makes it easier to work. This site is tremendous help God Bless You for your generosity and hard work.
    Dan,USA - Sep 13, 2005 @ 10:03 am
  • Great write-up. Don't use the axle bolt to remove the joint. You will risk compressing the threads and damage the joint housing backing the bolt out. Take an extra 20 mins to remove the axle. It will save an hour of trying to remove a damged axle nut.
    Jason80 - Sep 8, 2005 @ 10:32 am
  • Thank you for the guidance - it was a big help, nice website! Just replaced both of my outer CV joints on a 98 Passat V6 Auto (53K ml). I purchased 1 $12 ea. 12 point triple-square bit from www.GermanAutoParts.com. - nice sturdy long tool (6" & knurled) tool for 1/2" drive. Found a 17mm hex drain plug wrench at Sears $8, with a a length of black iron pipe was a breeze. I was able to remove both axles without steps 8, 9. After removing the the protective overhanging plate(s) (held in place by three 6mm allen bolts). I was able to maneuver the axle assemble(s) out and away, and back in again. Hardest part was driving the inner race off the shaft with a hammer and brass bar stock. Outer cv's were $198 ea. at www.autopartswarehouse.com w/free shipping. Schucks auto parts had the band clamp tool for $8.
    Keep up the great work everyone, and thanks.
    John, USA - Aug 13, 2005 @ 5:56 pm
  • Thank you for the guidance - it was a big help. To reiterate some of the earlier comments - I could not remove the single bolt locking the upper control arms, so I removed the lower control arms. Also, despite your warning, I didn't remove the wheel sensors - I didn't know how. And the axle came out real easly, but sure enough I have ABS warning lights. Guess I'll have to figure out how to remove them.
    Mike - Aug 1, 2005 @ 12:11 pm
  • I'm doing this right now on my 00 V6 GLX, driver's side. This writeup is fantastic, it's really helped me out. One thing to note- my steering knuckle has a single 16mm bolt and nut clamping the upper control arms. It is a different design of knuckle than the one shown in the drawing. I was able to get the nut off, but I can't for the life of me budge the bolt. I'll post again when I figure out how to get the bolt out.
    Peter, USA - Jul 31, 2005 @ 3:10 pm
  • Thanks for the write up!
    Niel is right, on my 98 b5 passat Tdi, the left hand side driveshaft can be removed by just undoing the hub nut, then jack and support the car.then undo the six 10mm 12 point inner bolts. the shaft can then be moved in and up at the gearbox end, and wiggled out through the front suspension arms. you dont even need to take the wheel off!!
    Dermot Ireland - Jul 13, 2005 @ 11:30 am
  • A great resource, I have used your post twice now for boot repairs.
    A tip for other users: I managed to strip the teeth from the inside face of the bolts holding the inner cv to the transmission.
    Panicked a little then took a 1/4 inch drill and drilled about 1/4 inch into the bolt. then used a 6 mm allen socket to remove the bolt from the CV joint.
    Picked up a new bolt from the local stealership for $4...
    Talk about being relived.
    Good site, keep it up.
    Steve - Jul 8, 2005 @ 8:52 am
  • Awesome documentation, amigo. I've found new driveshafts for just under $540, shipped from bimmerparts.com (plug!) to slip into my '99 B5. The Haynes and the Bentley describe the removal, but it's a tremendous help to have your pics. You're a scholar and a gentleman, sir!
    Sco - Jun 6, 2005 @ 4:10 pm
  • Thanks for the write-up. This was a big help as I needed some confirmation regarding dimantling the CV joint. You were also right.... I found the 12 point 10 mm drive at Autozone(for the inner CV joint bolts). Note that I popped the lower arm ball joints instead of the upper(I was concerned about possible alignment issues...real or not). This made things a little difficult as you have to juggle the forward lower arm ball joint insertion and the spline insertion of the outer CV into the hub because of space limitations but it worked. Just be sure to install the rear arm ball joint last.
    Mike - May 24, 2005 @ 9:49 am
  • For step 17 I recommend using an inexpensive carbide scribe to mark the alignment of the components. Make corresponding scratch marks on the edge of the inner race, cage, and outer housing. I've seen advice recommending permanent markers and punch marks; if you use brake cleaner, the permanent marker will be lost, and putting punch marks on precision components is my idea of risky. Once you've marked the components, its very easy to disassemble, clean, and reassemble the joint. Also, don't try to use the axle bolt to separate the joint from the axle on an 01.5 - the axle is hollow, and the bolt will just wedge inside of it.
    Kevin - May 22, 2005 @ 3:19 pm
  • Totally Awesome! thanks so much, here are some more tips: (2001.5 V6)
    Definitely use a 6mm allen socket style, using the 90 wrench added more than an hour to the job.
    17mm hex for 2001.5 V6.
    Above shortcut WORKS!
    Get a friend to help apply brakes when removing/installing 6mm hex bolts (for manual trans). or do it while tires on the ground.

    Vath - May 14, 2005 @ 11:50 pm
  • V6 uses 17mm hex (not 16 as stated). Also 12point star also called a Serrated Wrench.
    Rick - May 14, 2005 @ 1:40 pm
  • one little problem with these instructions. how in gods name do you remove the cirle clip inside the CV housing. Unless, yours was already aftermarket.
    Paul - Apr 15, 2005 @ 2:39 pm
  • Happen to have the partnumber for the bolt that needs to be replaced, i.e. the bolt which came in your kit?
    Thanks for the write up.
    - Jan 14, 2005 @ 9:36 pm
  • Great writeup! I discovered a shortcut!
    On the drivers side of a B5, step 9 is NOT Necessary! After you take out the 6 cap bolts from the inner end, pry the inner end free from tne trans and go up and in with it; then do step 10, and tap the hub inward. There's enough room goin up & in toward the transmission to free the outer end, saving lots of swearing and potential steering knuckle damage. Took 1/2 hour to replace the axle!
    Note: this doesn't work on passenger side, the turbo and cat are in the way.
    Neil aka nebiedubber vortex, Passat+miata cb5 - Jan 10, 2005 @ 9:51 am
  • Thanks for the great resource!

    On my 01.5 V6, the axle nut requires a 17mm socketed hex driver instead of a 16mm.
    Tyler - Nov 16, 2004 @ 10:05 pm

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